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The term "green desert" is often used to describe an area that appears lush and green at first glance but lacks biodiversity and ecological health. In this article we'll take a look at what a green desert is and how to avoid planting one. In other words, a green desert is a landscape that might seem vibrant and alive due to the presence of a single type of plant or a few dominant species. Still, it lacks diverse species and interactions that characterize a healthy and balanced ecosystem. The term "green desert" should not be confused with the concept of "greening of a desert." While both terms involve deserts and the idea of increased vegetation, they refer to different scenarios: Green Desert: As mentioned above, a "green desert" refers to a landscape that appears green and lush on the surface but lacks biodiversity and ecological health. It often involves monoculture plantations, invasive species dominance, deforested areas, or simplified ecosystems. Greening of a Desert: The "greening of a desert" refers to efforts and processes aimed at increasing vegetation and transforming arid or desert landscapes into areas with more plant cover. This could involve various techniques such as afforestation (planting trees), reforestation (restoring forests), introducing drought-resistant plants, implementing irrigation and water management systems, and more. The goal is to combat desertification, enhance soil quality, and provide habitat for wildlife. In essence, "green desert" highlights the lack of biodiversity and ecological balance despite a seemingly green appearance, while "greening of a desert" focuses on intentionally increasing vegetation cover and transforming barren landscapes into more productive and sustainable ecosystems. The focus of this article is the green desert that lacks biodiversity and exploring how we got here. Reasons why the green desert evolved, include the following: Monoculture Agriculture: In industrial-scale monoculture agriculture, vast expanses of land might be planted with a single crop, such as corn, soybeans, or wheat. While the fields can appear green and productive, they lack the natural diversity of plant species and associated wildlife that contribute to a more resilient and sustainable ecosystem. In contrast, Native Canadian and American horticulturalists have been growing three important crops together: corn, beans, and squash. This agricultural technique is commonly associated with several Native American tribes, including those in what is now known as Canada. The Three Sisters planting method is a sustainable and mutually beneficial way of cultivating these crops, as they provide support and nutrients for each other. Here's how it works: Corn (Maize): Corn is planted in mounds or hills and serves as the tallest crop in the arrangement. The sturdy cornstalks provide support for the climbing beans. Beans: Beans are planted around the base of the corn plants. They use the cornstalks as a natural trellis to climb upward. Beans are leguminous plants that fix nitrogen from the air into the soil, enriching it with this essential nutrient. Squash: Squash or pumpkins are planted between the corn and beans. The large, sprawling squash leaves provide shade to the soil, helping to prevent weed growth and retain soil moisture. This shading effect also benefits the shallow-rooted corn. The Three Sisters planting system is beneficial for several reasons: Complementary Growth: The three crops have different growth habits that complement each other. Corn provides support, beans enrich the soil, and squash provides ground cover. Nutrient Cycling: The beans' nitrogen-fixing ability benefits the other plants by increasing soil fertility. This reduces the need for external fertilizers. Pest Control: The presence of squash leaves helps deter pests by providing a physical barrier and reducing sunlight penetration to the soil, making it less favourable for weeds. Water Conservation: The squash leaves help shade the soil, reducing evaporation and conserving moisture. Cultural Significance: The Three Sisters are often seen as a symbol of interdependence, cooperation, and the close relationship between people and the land in many Native American cultures. The Three Sisters planting technique is an example of indigenous ecological knowledge and sustainable agricultural practices that have been passed down through generations. It showcases the wisdom of these cultures in cultivating crops in harmony with the natural environment. Urban Landscaping: Some urban areas prioritize lawns and ornamental plants for aesthetic appeal and uniformity. These manicured landscapes might lack the native plants, pollinator habitats, and natural interactions that support a thriving ecosystem. Not sure if your plant is an invasive specie? Check out this article on What NOT to plant in your garden. Invasive plant species introduced to a new area can sometimes outcompete and displace native plants. This can lead to an ecosystem dominated by a single invasive species, creating a green appearance but reducing biodiversity and ecological balance. Deforestation and Simplified Ecosystems: When forests are cleared for agriculture or other purposes, the resulting landscape might be covered in grasses or a few hardy plant species, creating a uniform green cover. However, the complexity and diversity of the original forest ecosystem still need to be recovered. Overgrazing: In areas where livestock graze excessively, native vegetation can be degraded, leading to a simplified landscape dominated by a few less palatable plant species. This can result in a "green desert" where biodiversity is reduced. Efforts to combat "green desert" conditions often involve promoting biodiversity, restoring native habitats, and encouraging sustainable land management practices. See this project in Kitchener-Waterloo that aims to restore wildflower meadows on roadsides. How did we become so accustomed to green deserts? Wildflower meadows disappeared mainly in England and many other parts of the world, including Canada, after World War II due to agricultural intensification, changes in land use, economic factors, and shifts in societal preferences. Social Status and Prestige: Having a manicured grass lawn symbolized wealth and status in many cultures. Lawns were seen as a way to demonstrate one's ability to devote resources (such as time, money, and labour) to maintaining a pristine and controlled environment. Cultural Norms: Grass lawns became part of cultural norms and societal expectations for residential and public spaces. This led to the proliferation of grass lawns as the default landscaping choice. Agricultural Intensification: After World War II, there was a push to increase agricultural production to meet the demands of a growing population. This led to the adoption of intensive farming practices, including synthetic fertilizers, herbicides, and heavy machinery. These practices were not conducive to maintaining diverse wildflower meadows, often viewed as unproductive land. Mechanization: The mechanization of agriculture allowed for larger fields and more efficient land management. This led to removing hedgerows, ditches, and other landscape features that provided habitats for wildflowers and associated wildlife. Monoculture Farming: The focus on maximizing yields led to converting mixed grasslands into monoculture crops such as wheat, barley, and other cereals. These monocultures were more financially profitable but needed more diversity of wildflower species in traditional meadows. Government Policies: Government agricultural policies after WWII often incentivized the conversion of traditional grasslands and meadows into more intensive and productive forms of agriculture. Subsidies and support programs encouraged farmers to maximize production rather than prioritize biodiversity and conservation. Urbanization and Development: The post-war period saw increased urbanization and development, leading to the expansion of cities and towns. This encroachment on rural landscapes resulted in losing open spaces, including traditional meadows. Economic Factors: As urbanization increased, rural populations declined, and traditional rural livelihoods shifted. Small-scale farming and traditional land management practices that sustained wildflower meadows were often abandoned in favour of more economically viable options. Societal Shifts: There was a cultural shift in landscaping preferences towards more formal and manicured landscapes, including closely mowed lawns. Wildflower meadows were seen as unkempt and less desirable compared to well-maintained lawns. Lack of Awareness: Many people were not fully aware of the ecological value of wildflower meadows and their importance in supporting pollinators, biodiversity, and traditional landscapes. In recent decades, there has been a growing recognition of the ecological importance and cultural value of wildflower meadows. Conservation organizations, environmentalists, and individual gardeners have been working to restore and preserve these habitats through initiatives such as agri-environment schemes, meadow restoration projects, and public education efforts. Efforts are being made to reintroduce native wildflowers and manage landscapes in ways that mimic natural processes, allowing these valuable habitats to recover and thrive once again. Are you ready to change your traditional lawn to something more sustainable? Read our article on Grass alternatives for an amazing landscape.

As gardeners, learning about plants is almost as much fun as planting them! Our members often travel to exotic places, take photos of the plants and send them to us to be featured. Recently, a member went to Nevada and spent some time in the hot desert sun at Fire Canyon. One interesting fact before entering the canyon was the cryptobiotic soils found in the rock formations. Cryptobiotic soils, also known as biological crusts, are unique soil surface formations found in arid and semiarid environments. They are composed of a complex symbiotic community of organisms, including cyanobacteria, lichens, mosses, fungi, and algae. These organisms work together to form a living crust that covers the soil surface, providing various ecological benefits. Some key components and characteristics of cryptobiotic soils: Cyanobacteria: Cyanobacteria, also known as blue-green algae, are the primary organisms responsible for forming cryptobiotic soils. They have the ability to photosynthesize and fix atmospheric nitrogen. These bacteria are critical in binding the soil particles together, preventing erosion, and enhancing soil stability. Lichens, Mosses, and Algae: Alongside cyanobacteria, other organisms like lichens, mosses, and algae also contribute to the formation of cryptobiotic soils. Lichens are symbiotic associations between fungi and algae or cyanobacteria. These organisms provide additional structural stability to the soil crust. Physical Structure: Cryptobiotic soils have a unique physical structure with a crusted or lumpy appearance. The crust forms a protective layer on the soil surface, shielding it from erosive forces such as wind and water. This structure helps to reduce soil erosion and maintain soil moisture by trapping water. Water Absorption and Retention: Cryptobiotic soils have the ability to absorb and retain water more effectively than bare soil. The crust's surface features, including its lumpy structure and excreted extracellular substances, enhance water infiltration and reduce water loss through evaporation. This water retention capacity is vital for supporting plant growth and promoting ecosystem resilience in arid environments. Nutrient Cycling: The organisms within the cryptobiotic crust play a significant role in nutrient cycling. Cyanobacteria fix atmospheric nitrogen, providing a source of nitrogen for the surrounding ecosystem. These organisms also trap dust particles and organic matter, contributing to nutrient availability in the soil. Biotic Interactions: Cryptobiotic soils support a diverse range of microorganisms and invertebrates. These organisms interact with the soil crust, contributing to nutrient cycling, decomposition of organic matter, and the overall ecological functioning of the ecosystem. Cryptobiotic soils are ecologically important components of arid and semiarid ecosystems. They play a crucial role in soil stabilization, water infiltration, nutrient cycling, and biodiversity maintenance. It is essential to protect and preserve these delicate soil formations to maintain the ecological integrity of desert environments. Mountain goats in the desert En route, our members also came across some cute mountain goats eating the leaves of the shrubberies! It had rained and even flooded in some areas a few weeks before their visit, so the vegetation was greener than normal. Plants that thrive in the desert The Nevada desert is a harsh and arid environment with extreme temperatures and limited water availability. Despite these challenges, several plant species have adapted to survive in this desert region. Here are some common plants found in the Nevada desert: Joshua Tree (Yucca brevifolia): The Joshua Tree is an iconic plant of the Mojave Desert, which extends into parts of Nevada. It has a unique and distinct shape with tall, branching arms that reach towards the sky. Desert Sage (Salvia dorrii): Desert Sage is a low-growing shrub with silver-gray leaves and vibrant purple flowers. It is well adapted to the arid conditions of the Nevada desert. Creosote Bush (Larrea tridentata): Creosote Bush is a common plant found in the desert regions of Nevada. It has small, dark green leaves and produces yellow flowers. The leaves release a distinct aroma after rainfall. Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia spp.): Prickly Pear Cactus is a type of cactus that thrives in the desert environments, including parts of Nevada. It has flat, paddle-shaped stems covered in spines and produces colorful flowers. Mojave Yucca (Yucca schidigera): The Mojave Yucca is a yucca species native to the Mojave Desert and can be found in Nevada. It has long, sword-shaped leaves and produces tall flower spikes with cream-colored blooms. Blackbrush (Coleogyne ramosissima): Blackbrush is a shrub that grows in the Nevada desert. It has small, dark green leaves and produces tiny yellow flowers. Mormon Tea (Ephedra spp.): Mormon Tea is a unique plant found in the Nevada desert. It is a shrub-like plant with jointed stems and produces small, scale-like leaves. It has a long history of traditional medicinal use. Desert Marigold (Baileya multiradiata): Desert Marigold is a perennial herb that grows in the Nevada desert. It has silvery-green foliage and produces bright yellow flowers. How plants grow in the desert Plants that are adapted to desert environments have developed various strategies to survive and grow in arid conditions. Here are some key adaptations and mechanisms that allow plants to thrive in the desert: Succulent Tissues: Many desert plants, such as cacti and succulents, have specialized tissues that can store water. These plants have thick, fleshy stems or leaves that store water during periods of rainfall, which they can then utilize during dry spells. Reduced Leaf Surface Area: Desert plants often have reduced leaf sizes or modified leaf structures to minimize water loss through transpiration. Some plants have spines or needles instead of broad leaves, which helps to reduce surface area and conserve water. Deep Root Systems: Desert plants often have extensive and deep root systems that enable them to access water from deeper soil layers where it may be available. These roots can reach down to groundwater sources or tap into water reserves deep underground. CAM Photosynthesis: Many desert plants, such as cacti, employ a specialized type of photosynthesis called Crassulacean Acid Metabolism (CAM). This process allows them to open their stomata (tiny openings on leaves) during the cooler nighttime hours to take in carbon dioxide while minimizing water loss. They store the carbon dioxide and perform photosynthesis during the daytime when stomata remain closed to conserve water. Drought Tolerance: Desert plants have evolved mechanisms to withstand extended periods of drought. They often have thick waxy coatings on their leaves to reduce water loss, and some plants can enter a state of dormancy during extreme drought conditions until more favourable conditions return. Adaptation to Extreme Temperatures: Desert plants have adaptations to cope with the extreme temperature fluctuations typical of desert environments. They may have reflective or hairy surfaces to reduce heat absorption or employ mechanisms such as opening their stomata only at night to avoid excessive water loss during hot daytime temperatures. Reproduction and Germination Strategies: Desert plants often have specialized reproductive strategies. Some plants have adapted to reproduce quickly after rainfall events, producing seeds that can lie dormant until conditions are favourable. This allows them to take advantage of brief periods of water availability. Overall, desert plants have evolved an array of adaptations to survive and grow in arid environments, allowing them to conserve water, tolerate extreme temperatures, and make the most of limited resources to sustain their growth and reproduction. The desert landscape is truly something to behold! Watch our video on YouTube for a closer look.

This garden has a hidden secret, it is actually a rain garden. It has a dry-well and gravel channels fed by the downspouts and sump pump outlet from the house. I trained as a horticulturist in Vancouver and one of my interests was using greywater (wastewater) in gardening. During the pandemic lockdowns, I installed a French drain to solve a drainage problem in the backyard, it runs from the backyard along the east side of the house to a gravel dry-well about 5 feet down the slope from the Spruce tree, it partially follows the path of the ‘dry stream bed’ above ground (photo on right). As I began digging the trench, I realized the downspouts could be connected to this drain and all water redirected to the front garden. Off of this dry-well I dug a few ‘feeder’ trenches into the garden beds, parallel to the sidewalk, and filled them with leftover gravel and drain pipe. This enables the rain water to be directed further into the garden when the dry-well becomes overwhelmed in heavy downpours. On the west side of the house, there is only one downspout watering this side of the garden and it empties into a gravel channel that runs along the base of the largest granite boulders. There is a slight depression in the garden where three ‘Red Rooster’ Sedges are planted and this is to prevent excess rainwater running off the slope. The garden itself was inspired by the gardens of Piet Oudolf, garden designer of the HighLine in New York. He uses an informal, naturalistic approach to his plant choices giving his gardens a prairie or meadow-like feel. I chose to use granite boulders in place of the original traditional retaining wall that was lost behind overgrown plantings and a narrow walkway (photo on right) to create a more natural open feel and to contrast with the soft texture of the plants. I chose plants based on foliage (because of the slope I don’t have to worry about the plants being waterlogged as you might on a flat grade giving more freedom for plant choices). I prefer plants that look great in every season based on their foliage or structure, such as warm season grasses; Japanese Forest Grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola’), Fountain grass (Pennisetum alopecuroides) and Silver grass (Miscanthus sinensis). I also chose plants with bold leaves, such as Hosta or Hellebore, that would contrast well with delicate textured plants such as Sweet Woodruff (Galium odorata) and the Dwarf Birch ‘Cesky Gold’ at the bottom corner of the slope . The next steps for the garden are to finish filling in the area around the ‘dry stream bed’ with plants that can compete with the Spruce tree. I plan to replace the Periwinkle (Vinca Minor) I have used as a spot filler throughout the garden with less invasive plants. And possibly replace the turf on the boulevard with a lower maintenance ground cover. This was the end result! Thank you for visiting and if you ever see me out gardening stop and say hello! The garden is located at 64 Allen Street East, Waterloo.

As we grow closer to a more sustainable future, gardeners have become more discerning in what they purchase from the local nursery and what they plant in their gardens. When you think about butterflies and milkweed, most likely, the pink small flowered plant comes to mind. However, there is a difference between milkweed and butterfly weed. Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a specific species of milkweed, belonging to the Asclepias genus. While milkweed is a broader term encompassing various species within the Asclepias genus, butterfly weed refers specifically to Asclepias tuberosa. Here are some key differences between butterfly weed and other milkweed species: Appearance: Butterfly weed is a perennial herbaceous plant that typically reaches a height of 1 to 3 feet (30 to 90 cm). It has clusters of bright orange to yellow-orange flowers arranged in umbels at the top of the stems. The flowers are flat-topped and have five petals. The foliage is narrow and lance-shaped. Habitat: Butterfly weed is native to North America and can be found in various habitats, including prairies, meadows, and open fields. It prefers well-drained soil and is often found in sunny locations. Growth habit: Butterfly weed has a clumping growth habit, with multiple stems arising from a central root crown. It does not spread aggressively through rhizomes like some other milkweed species. Butterfly attraction: As the name suggests, butterfly weed is highly attractive to butterflies, including monarch butterflies. It serves as a valuable nectar source for adult butterflies and provides a host plant for monarch butterfly larvae. Seed production: Butterfly weed produces distinctive seed pods that are long, narrow, and erect. The pods contain numerous flat seeds with a tuft of silky hairs (pappus) attached, aiding in wind dispersal. It's worth noting that while butterfly weed is not considered invasive, some other milkweed species, such as common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), can exhibit invasive characteristics in certain regions. Types of milkweed While milkweed generally benefits Ontario gardens, only some varieties are equally suitable for some gardens. It's vital to choose milkweed species native to your specific region in Ontario. Here are a few native milkweed species commonly found in Ontario: Common Milkweed (Asclepias syriaca): Ontario's most widespread milkweed species. It has large, pinkish-purple flowers and provides ample nectar for pollinators. Common Milkweed is a host plant for Monarch butterflies. Swamp Milkweed (Asclepias incarnata): Swamp Milkweed thrives in moist or wet areas and has attractive clusters of pink flowers. It is well-suited for gardens with wetter soil conditions and serves as a host plant for Monarch butterflies. Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa): This species has vibrant orange flowers and prefers dry to medium-moisture soil. It is a popular garden choice due to its striking colour and ability to attract butterflies, including Monarchs. These native milkweed species are well-adapted to Ontario's climate and provide the necessary resources for Monarch butterflies and other pollinators. They are generally easy to grow and maintain. However, ensuring that the milkweed species you choose aligns with your specific garden conditions, such as soil moisture levels, sunlight exposure, and available space, is essential. It's worth noting that some non-native milkweed species, such as Tropical Milkweed (Asclepias curassavica), have been introduced in Ontario. While these species can provide nectar and food for Monarchs, they may pose certain risks, such as disrupting the natural migration patterns of Monarchs and potentially spreading diseases. Therefore, it is generally recommended to prioritize native milkweed species for Ontario gardens. However, most gardeners have found that the non-native species are used as an annual, dying in the cold winters. Milkweed plants contain toxic compounds that can be harmful if ingested by humans or animals. The toxins found in milkweed are known as cardiac glycosides, which can affect the heart and other organs. While milkweed is an essential food source for Monarch butterfly caterpillars, they have evolved to tolerate and even sequester these toxins, which make them unpalatable to most predators. However, these toxins can adversely affect other organisms, including humans and pets. It's essential to exercise caution when handling milkweed plants and to prevent ingestion by children, pets, or livestock. Avoid touching your face or eyes after handling milkweed without washing your hands, as the sap can cause skin irritation. If you have concerns about the potential toxicity of milkweed, it's advisable to consult with local gardening resources, native plant nurseries, or conservation organizations for specific guidance. They can provide more detailed information on the toxicity levels of different milkweed species and offer recommendations for safe handling and planting practices. So now that you've decided on a native plant for your garden to attract butterflies, here are some key points on how to take care of your butterfly weed: How to grow and take care of butterfly weed: To grow butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) in Ontario, you can follow these steps: Choose a suitable location: Select a sunny spot in your garden with well-drained soil. Butterfly weed prefers full sun and doesn't tolerate wet or waterlogged conditions. Prepare the soil: Before planting, loosen the soil and remove any weeds or grass from the area. To improve its fertility and drainage, you can amend the soil with organic matter, such as compost. Sow seeds or plant seedlings: You have two options for growing butterfly weed: sowing seeds directly in the garden or planting seedlings. Sowing seeds: In early spring, scatter the seeds on the prepared soil surface and gently press them into the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist until germination, typically taking 2 to 3 weeks. Thin the seedlings to provide enough space for each plant to grow. Planting seedlings: You can purchase young butterfly weed plants from a nursery. Dig a hole slightly larger than the seedling's root ball and place it in the hole. Backfill the hole with soil, firm it gently around the plant, and water thoroughly. Watering and maintenance: Keep the soil evenly moist but not waterlogged during the establishment period. Once the plants are established, butterfly weed is relatively drought-tolerant. Water the plants during dry periods to ensure healthy growth. Mulch and weed control: Apply a layer of organic mulch, such as straw or wood chips, around the plants to suppress weeds and conserve soil moisture. Avoid placing the mulch directly against the stems to prevent rotting. Pruning and deadheading: In late fall or early spring, you can cut back the stems of butterfly weed to the ground. This helps remove dead foliage and promotes vigorous growth in the following season. Deadhead the spent flowers throughout the growing season to encourage continuous blooming and prevent self-seeding. Monarch butterfly habitat: Butterfly weed is an important host plant for monarch butterfly larvae. By planting butterfly weed, you create suitable habitat for monarch butterflies. Ensure that you have enough space to accommodate caterpillars without compromising the overall appearance of your garden. Remember that butterfly weed is a native plant and benefits pollinators, particularly monarch butterflies. By providing a suitable environment for butterfly weed to thrive, you contribute to conserving these crucial species. Photo's supplied by one of our members, D.W. !! THANK YOU !!

Famous and extravagant international gardens come in all different shapes and sizes. From the tulip fields of The Netherlands, the classical English gardens to the zen inspired gardens of Asia. Each garden has something unique to offer and the Conservatory and Botanical Gardens at the Bellagio Hotel in Las Vegas is no different. Use the slider and see some of the incredible displays from 2023. "The Conservatory - Bellagio’s Opus Each season, the enormously talented Horticulture and Engineering teams transform the 14,000-square-foot Botanical Gardens into a showcase of inspiring sights, sounds, scents and colors. Spring, Summer, Fall and Winter are all featured—along with a special display for Lunar New Year. When the seasons change so do the displays. The talented Conservatory team changes out the design and also replants and repurposes as much of the living plant material as possible, further celebrating Mother Nature and our commitment to sustainability." There are several locations around the world known for their extravagant flower displays. Here are a few notable examples: Keukenhof Gardens, Netherlands: Keukenhof is one of the world's largest flower gardens, located near Lisse, Netherlands. It showcases approximately 7 million flower bulbs, including tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths, creating a colourful and breathtaking display. Dubai Miracle Garden, UAE: The Dubai Miracle Garden is a stunning flower park featuring over 150 million flowers arranged in various shapes and structures. It holds the Guinness World Record for the largest vertical garden and features impressive floral installations and sculptures. Longwood Gardens, USA: Located in Pennsylvania, Longwood Gardens is known for its extensive horticultural displays, including beautiful flower gardens, conservatories, and fountains. The gardens cover over 1,000 acres and are home to a wide array of plant species. There are numerous famous gardens around the world known for their beauty, history, and cultural significance. Here are some notable examples: Kew Gardens, England: Located in London, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, commonly known as Kew Gardens, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It boasts an extensive collection of plants, including rare and exotic species, and features beautiful landscapes, glasshouses, and historic buildings. Gardens of Versailles, France: The gardens of the Palace of Versailles are renowned for their grandeur and Baroque-style designs. They cover an expansive area and include geometrically arranged flower beds, meticulously trimmed hedges, ornamental lakes, and numerous statues and fountains. Butchart Gardens, Canada: Situated in British Columbia, Butchart Gardens is a stunning garden that attracts millions of visitors each year. It features various themed gardens, including the Sunken Garden, Rose Garden, Japanese Garden, and Italian Garden, showcasing a wide range of plants and flowers. Claude Monet's Garden, France: Located in Giverny, France, this garden was the inspiration for many of the renowned Impressionist artist Claude Monet's paintings. It features a water garden with Japanese bridges, water lilies, and lush vegetation, as well as flowerbeds bursting with vibrant colours. Gardens of Suzhou, China: The classical gardens of Suzhou, China, are recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. These gardens, including the Humble Administrator's Garden and the Lingering Garden, exemplify traditional Chinese garden design with their harmony between natural elements, pavilions, bridges, and water features. Alhambra Gardens, Spain: The Alhambra in Granada, Spain, is a magnificent palace complex with stunning gardens. The Generalife Gardens, in particular, feature elegant courtyards, fountains, and terraced gardens, showcasing the beauty of Islamic garden design. Generalife Gardens, Spain: These gardens are part of the Alhambra complex in Granada and are known for their exquisite design and tranquil ambiance. They feature terraces, courtyards, water channels, and beautiful views of the surrounding landscape. Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, South Africa: Situated in Cape Town, Kirstenbosch is a breathtaking botanical garden nestled against the eastern slopes of Table Mountain. It showcases an incredible diversity of indigenous South African flora and offers stunning views of the city and surrounding mountains. Have you travelled to one of these, or other beautiful and unique gardens around the world? What garden would you add to the list? We're always looking to showcase our member's gardening adventures! Email us at waterloogardeners@gmail.com ATT: BLOG POST for more details. Happy Gardening!

Lavender has been used for centuries in medicine and cuisine. Whether grown as an annual or a perennial, if you love the scent after a fresh rain, capturing that essence for future use is a wonderful way to extend the enjoyment of your plant. Want to grow your own? Read our blog post here on how to do it. The scent of lavender has several benefits, including its calming and soothing properties. Here are some of the potential benefits associated with the scent of lavender: Relaxation and Stress Relief: Lavender is well-known for its calming aroma, which can help promote relaxation and reduce stress levels. Inhaling the scent of lavender has been shown to have a sedative effect, helping to induce a sense of calmness and tranquility. Improved Sleep Quality: Lavender's scent is commonly used as a natural sleep aid. It has been found to promote better sleep quality, potentially reducing insomnia and improving overall sleep patterns. Diffusing lavender essential oil or placing lavender sachets near your bed can help create a relaxing environment for sleep. Anxiety and Mood Management: The aroma of lavender has been linked to reduced anxiety and improved mood. It can help alleviate feelings of restlessness, nervousness, and agitation. Studies have shown that lavender scent has anxiolytic effects, contributing to a sense of well-being. Headache Relief: Lavender's scent may provide relief from headaches and migraines. Inhaling lavender aroma or applying lavender oil to the temples has been reported to help reduce headache severity and promote relaxation. Relaxation during Aromatherapy: Lavender is commonly used in aromatherapy practices to induce relaxation and create a peaceful atmosphere. The scent of lavender can be diffused, used in massage oils, or added to bathwater to enhance relaxation and overall well-being. Improved Cognitive Function: Some research suggests that lavender scent may have positive effects on cognitive function. It has been found to improve concentration, focus, and mental clarity. Mood Elevation: The pleasant aroma of lavender has a mood-elevating effect. It can help uplift spirits, reduce feelings of irritability or restlessness, and create a positive and calming atmosphere. It's important to note that individual responses to scents can vary, and some people may have allergies or sensitivities to lavender. It's always advisable to test for any adverse reactions before using lavender products extensively. (We're gardeners, not medical professionals). Let's take a look at the most common ways to preserve lavender. How to preserve lavender Drying lavender is a common practice to preserve its fragrance and use it for various purposes, such as potpourri, sachets, or culinary applications. Here's a simple method to dry lavender: Harvesting: Begin by harvesting lavender when the flowers are fully bloomed but before they start to fade. Choose a dry morning or early afternoon to harvest, as the essential oils will be at their peak. Cut the lavender stems just above the leaves, leaving a few inches of stem. Bundling: Gather a small bunch of lavender stems, typically 20 to 30 stems, and tie them together with a string or rubber band. Ensure the stems are aligned at the base to form a neat bundle. Hanging: Hang the lavender bundles upside down in a well-ventilated, dry, and dark area. You can use a cool, dark room, a closet, or a drying rack. Make sure the bundles are not exposed to direct sunlight, as it can cause fading and loss of fragrance. Drying: Allow the lavender bundles to dry completely, which usually takes around two to four weeks. Check the bundles periodically to ensure there is no mold or moisture buildup. If you notice any signs of mold, discard the affected bundles. Testing for Dryness: To check if the lavender is fully dried, gently crumble a flower bud in your hand. If it easily crumbles and feels dry, it is ready for storage. If it feels slightly soft or pliable, it needs more time to dry. Removing Buds: Once the lavender is fully dried, remove the buds from the stems by gently rubbing them off. You can use your fingers or a clean sieve to separate the buds from the stems. Storage: Store the dried lavender buds in an airtight container or a sealed bag. Keep the container in a cool, dark place away from direct sunlight and moisture. Properly dried lavender can retain its fragrance for several months or even longer. Remember that different lavender varieties may have different drying times, and environmental conditions can also affect the drying process. Adjust the drying time accordingly based on your specific conditions. Culinary uses for lavender Lavender can be used in cooking and adds a unique floral and herbal flavor to various dishes. However, it's important to use culinary-grade lavender specifically labeled for culinary use, as some lavender varieties may have been treated with pesticides or not suitable for consumption. Or if you grow your own, make sure to wash it properly and identify the type that is safe to eat! Here are a few ways lavender can be used in cooking: Infusions and Syrups: Lavender can be infused into liquids such as milk, cream, or syrup to add flavour. For example, lavender-infused milk or cream can be used in custards, ice creams, or hot beverages like lattes. Lavender syrup can be used to sweeten drinks, drizzle over desserts, or as a flavouring in cocktails. Baking: Lavender can be added to baked goods such as cookies, cakes, scones, and bread. It pairs well with lemon, honey, and berries. Use it sparingly, as the flavour can be potent. Ground dried lavender buds or culinary lavender buds can be incorporated into the batter or sprinkled on top as a garnish. Seasoning Savoury Dishes: Lavender can be used as a seasoning in savoury dishes, particularly in Mediterranean and French cuisine. It adds a subtle floral note to dishes like roasted meats, stews, soups, and marinades. Use it sparingly, as the flavour can be overpowering if too much is added. Herbal Blends: Lavender can be used in herbal blends and spice rubs to enhance the flavour profile. It can be combined with other herbs like thyme, rosemary, or sage to create aromatic blends for seasoning meat, poultry, or vegetables. When using lavender in cooking, start with small amounts and gradually increase as per your taste preference. It's important not to overuse lavender, as its flavour can become overwhelming. Experimentation and balancing with other complementary flavours will help you create delightful dishes with a touch of lavender's unique aroma and taste. Do you use lavender in cooking? Share your thoughts with us in the comments or on social media.

Oh lavender, the name brings to mind fields of purple flowers on grey-blue stems, seen for miles. Can you smell the scent? Does it offer calmness, relaxation and a sense of well-being? Lavender has long been used for its medicinal and culinary purposes. Ontario isn't the Mediterranean, however, we can still enjoy growing these wispy stems that move back and forth in a breeze or send up it's divine scent when your leg brush up against it. Have you smelled lavender after a fresh rain?? The name "lavender" comes from the Latin word "lavare," which means "to wash." This is because lavender has historically been used for its aromatic and cleansing properties. In ancient Rome, lavender was commonly added to bathwater for its refreshing scent and believed cleansing properties. The Latin word "lavare" eventually evolved into "lavendula" in Old French, and later into "lavender" in English. The name reflects the plant's historical association with bathing and its use in various cleansing rituals. The scientific classification of lavender Kingdom: Plantae Division: Magnoliophyta Class: Magnoliopsida Order: Lamiales Family: Lamiaceae Genus: Lavandula There are several species within the Lavandula genus, but the most commonly cultivated and known species is Lavandula angustifolia, also known as English lavender or true lavender. Origins Lavender is native to the Mediterranean region, specifically the areas around the Mediterranean Sea. It is believed to have originated in the mountainous regions of the Mediterranean, including countries such as France, Spain, Italy, and Greece. Lavender has been cultivated and used for various purposes in this region for centuries. It has since been introduced and cultivated in many other parts of the world due to its popularity and versatility. Lavender is part of the mint family. It belongs to the family Lamiaceae, which is commonly known as the mint or the deadnettle family. This family includes a wide range of aromatic and culinary herbs, such as mint, rosemary, sage, thyme, and basil. Lavender shares some similarities with other members of the mint family, including the square-shaped stems, opposite leaves, and the presence of essential oils. How to grow lavender in Ontario: Soil conditions for growing lavender Lavender thrives in well-drained soil with a slightly alkaline pH. Here are some key considerations for the best soil conditions to grow lavender: Soil Type: Lavender prefers sandy or loamy soil with good drainage. Avoid heavy clay soils that retain water, as excessive moisture can cause root rot. pH Level: Lavender prefers a slightly alkaline soil pH between 6.7 and 7.3. If your soil is acidic, you can amend it with lime to raise the pH level. Organic Matter: Lavender prefers soil with low to moderate organic matter content. Excessive organic matter can retain moisture and lead to root rot, so it's important to strike a balance. Soil Texture: The ideal soil texture for lavender is well-drained and loose. If your soil is heavy or compacted, you can improve it by adding sand or perlite to improve drainage. Sunlight: Lavender thrives in full sun, so choose a location with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. It's worth noting that different lavender varieties may have slightly different soil preferences, so it's a good idea to research the specific variety you intend to grow for any additional requirements. Additionally, regular pruning, proper watering practices, and adequate air circulation around the plants are also important for the overall health and successful growth of lavender. Sun requirements for growing lavender Lavender thrives in full sun conditions. Here are the sun requirements for growing lavender: Full Sun: Lavender plants require a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight each day. They need ample sunlight to develop strong stems, vibrant flowers, and optimal essential oil production. Southern Exposure: If possible, plant lavender in a location with a southern exposure in the Northern Hemisphere or a northern exposure in the Southern Hemisphere. This orientation maximizes sun exposure throughout the day. Avoid Shade: Lavender does not tolerate shade well. Insufficient sunlight can lead to weak growth, fewer flowers, and decreased overall vigor. Ensure that the planting location is free from shade caused by nearby trees, buildings, or other structures. Morning Sun: Lavender benefits from morning sun exposure, as it helps dry any moisture accumulated overnight on the foliage. Morning sun also promotes healthy photosynthesis and overall plant growth. Protection from Intense Afternoon Sun: While lavender loves sunlight, it is important to protect the plants from intense afternoon sun, especially in hotter climates. In regions with scorching summer temperatures, some afternoon shade or filtered sunlight can help prevent excessive heat stress. It's worth noting that different lavender varieties may have specific sun requirements, so it's a good idea to research the specific variety you intend to grow for any additional considerations. Additionally, adequate air circulation around the plants is also important to prevent moisture-related issues and ensure optimal growth. Which varieties of lavender grow in Ontario? In Ontario, Canada, certain lavender varieties are well-suited for growing conditions in the region. Here are a few lavender varieties that are commonly grown in Ontario: English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia): English lavender is one of the most popular lavender varieties and is well-suited for Ontario's climate. It has narrow leaves and produces aromatic flowers in shades of purple, blue, or white. Varieties such as 'Hidcote' and 'Munstead' are commonly grown in Ontario. French Lavender (Lavandula stoechas): French lavender is another variety that can be grown in Ontario, particularly in warmer regions or with proper winter protection. It has broader leaves and distinctive bracts on top of the flower spikes. 'Anouk' is a popular French lavender variety suitable for Ontario's climate. Lavandin (Lavandula x intermedia): Lavandin is a hybrid lavender that is a cross between English lavender and spike lavender (Lavandula latifolia). It tends to be more heat and drought tolerant compared to English lavender. Varieties such as 'Grosso' and 'Provence' can be grown successfully in Ontario. It's important to note that Ontario's climate can vary across different regions, so it's always a good idea to choose lavender varieties that are recommended for your specific hardiness zone. Additionally, providing proper winter protection, such as mulching and situating plants in well-drained locations, can help increase the chances of successful lavender cultivation in Ontario. Do you grow lavender in your garden? Let us know in the comments and share your tips for growing this incredibly aromatic plant.

In Ontario, strawberries are typically in season from late June to early July. The exact timing can vary depending on the weather and specific growing conditions in a given year. June-bearing strawberry varieties, which produce a single large crop, are generally harvested during this time. It's important to keep in mind that the strawberry season in Ontario is relatively short, typically lasting a few weeks, so it's best to take advantage of the fresh local strawberries while they are available. Here are a few ways in which you can preserve strawberries for the rest of the year. Preserving strawberries allows you to enjoy their delicious flavour even when they are out of season. Here are a few methods for preserving strawberries: Freezing: Wash the strawberries gently and remove the stems. Pat them dry with a paper towel or let them air dry. Place the strawberries in a single layer on a baking sheet or tray and freeze them until firm. Transfer the frozen strawberries to airtight containers or freezer bags, removing as much air as possible. Label the containers with the date and store them in the freezer for up to 8-12 months. Jam or Preserves: Wash and hull the strawberries, then chop or mash them to the desired consistency. In a large pot, combine the strawberries with sugar and a squeeze of lemon juice (optional). Cook the mixture over medium heat, stirring frequently until the sugar dissolves and the strawberries break down. Continue to cook the mixture until it thickens to your desired consistency. Pour the hot jam into sterilized jars, leaving a small headspace. Seal the jars with sterilized lids and process them in a water bath canner according to the recommended time for your altitude. Once processed, let the jars cool and check the seals. Properly sealed jars can be stored in a cool, dark place for up to a year. Dehydrating: Wash and hull the strawberries, then slice them into uniform pieces. Arrange the strawberry slices on dehydrator trays or a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Set the dehydrator to the appropriate temperature (around 135°F or 57°C) or use the lowest temperature setting in your oven. Dehydrate the strawberries until they are leathery and no longer moist. This may take several hours to overnight, depending on the method used. Allow the dehydrated strawberries to cool completely, then store them in airtight containers or sealable bags in a cool, dark place for several months. By using these preservation methods, you can enjoy the flavours of fresh strawberries long after the growing season is over. Not sure which strawberries to choose for baked goods and jams? Read more about it on our previous blog post! How to Grow Strawberries in Ontario. Images provided by Stefica.

The name "strawberry" is believed to have originated from Old English and Middle English. The word "strawberry" is a combination of two Old English words: "streaw" (meaning "straw") and "berige" (meaning "berry"). This combination refers to the small, straw-like runners that grow from the base of the plant and appear to be scattered around the fruit, resembling pieces of straw. The name might also have been influenced by the practice of mulching strawberries with straw, which helps to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and protect the fruit. Over time, the name "strawberry" became the commonly used term for this fruit, and it has been used for centuries to refer to the delicious red berries we know today. Growing strawberries in Ontario can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. Strawberries are not native to Ontario or North America. The cultivated strawberries commonly grown in Ontario and other parts of the world are derived from European strawberry species. However, wild strawberries, known as Fragaria virginiana, are native to Ontario and can be found growing in forests, meadows, and open areas. Wild strawberries are smaller in size compared to cultivated varieties and have a unique flavour. They are also a favourite among foragers and gardeners who prefer to grow native plants. Strawberries are not only delicious but also packed with various essential nutrients. Here are some of the nutritional benefits of strawberries: Vitamins and Minerals: Strawberries are a rich source of vitamin C, which is important for immune function, collagen production, and antioxidant protection. They also contain significant amounts of manganese, folate, potassium, and vitamins B6 and K. Fiber: Strawberries are a good source of dietary fiber, which aids in digestion, helps regulate blood sugar levels, and supports heart health. Antioxidants: Strawberries are loaded with antioxidants such as anthocyanins, ellagic acid, and flavonoids. These compounds help protect the body against oxidative stress, reduce inflammation, and may have anti-cancer properties. Low in Calories: Strawberries are relatively low in calories, making them a healthy choice for those watching their calorie intake. One cup of strawberries contains about 50-60 calories. Hydration: Strawberries have high water content, which contributes to hydration and helps maintain healthy skin. Blood Pressure and Heart Health: The potassium content in strawberries, along with their fiber and antioxidant content, may contribute to maintaining healthy blood pressure levels and supporting heart health. Blood Sugar Regulation: Despite their sweetness, strawberries have a relatively low glycemic index, which means they have a minimal impact on blood sugar levels. This makes them suitable for individuals managing diabetes or watching their blood sugar levels. Here's a step-by-step guide to help you grow your own strawberries: Choose the Right Variety: Select strawberry varieties that are well-suited for Ontario's climate and growing conditions. Some popular options for Ontario include June-bearing varieties like 'Kent,' 'Sparkle,' and 'Earliglow,' as well as ever-bearing varieties like 'Seascape' and 'Tristar.' Consider factors such as flavour, yield, disease resistance, and whether you prefer a single large harvest or smaller harvests throughout the season. Prepare the Soil: Strawberries thrive in well-drained soil with a pH between 6 and 7. Prepare the soil in early spring or late fall by removing any weeds, rocks, or debris. Incorporate organic matter, such as compost or well-rotted manure, to improve soil fertility and drainage. Consider performing a soil test to determine if any specific nutrients need to be added. Planting: In Ontario, strawberries are typically planted in early spring or early fall. Space the plants about 12-18 inches apart in rows that are 2-3 feet apart. Dig a hole large enough to accommodate the roots of the strawberry plant, ensuring the crown is level with the soil surface. Place the plant in the hole, spread the roots, and backfill with soil. Water the newly planted strawberry plants thoroughly. Mulching: Apply a layer of straw or pine needles around the strawberry plants to suppress weeds, retain moisture, and protect the fruit from rotting. Make sure the mulch is about 2-3 inches deep, leaving a small space around the crown of the plants. Watering and Care: Strawberries need regular watering, especially during dry periods. Aim to provide about 1 inch of water per week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Water at the base of the plants, avoiding overhead watering to reduce the risk of disease. Monitor the soil moisture and adjust watering as needed. Fertilizing: Fertilize your strawberry plants to promote healthy growth and fruit production. Apply a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 or 14-14-14, in early spring and again after harvest. Follow the instructions on the fertilizer package for application rates. Pest and Disease Management: Keep an eye out for common pests like slugs, snails, and strawberry root weevils. Handpick or use organic pest control methods to manage them. Diseases like powdery mildew, grey mold, and verticillium wilt can also affect strawberries. Plant disease-resistant varieties, practice crop rotation, and ensure good air circulation around the plants to minimize disease risks. Harvesting: June-bearing varieties typically produce a single large crop in late spring or early summer, while ever-bearing varieties produce smaller harvests throughout the season. Harvest strawberries when they are fully ripe, bright red, and slightly soft. Gently pick the berries to avoid damaging the plants. By following these steps and providing proper care, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of fresh, homegrown strawberries in Ontario. Now that we've grow our own strawberries, which types are best for jams and pies? When it comes to making jam, different strawberry varieties can offer varying flavours, textures, and characteristics. While personal preferences may vary, here are a few strawberry varieties that are often favoured for making jam: Honeoye: Honeoye strawberries are known for their excellent flavour and are often used for making jams and preserves. They have a sweet and slightly tart taste, and their firm texture holds up well during the cooking process. Jewel: Jewel strawberries are popular for their exceptional sweetness and rich flavour, making them a great choice for jam-making. They have a vibrant red colour and a soft texture that lends itself well to creating smooth and spreadable jam. Seascape: Seascape strawberries are an ever-bearing variety that produces fruit throughout the growing season. They have a well-balanced sweet flavour, a firm texture, and are often favoured for making jams with a bright and fresh taste. Tristar: Tristar strawberries are another ever-bearing variety that offers a rich and sweet flavour. They are particularly popular for their intense strawberry aroma and their ability to create flavourful and fragrant jams. Earliglow: Earliglow strawberries are a June-bearing variety that is highly regarded for its exceptional flavour and sweetness. They have a juicy texture and a robust strawberry taste, making them an excellent choice for making flavourful jam. Remember, the best strawberry for jam-making ultimately depends on personal preference. You might consider trying different varieties to find the one that suits your taste and produces the desired flavour and consistency in your homemade jam. Want to try your hand at baked goods? When it comes to using strawberries in baked goods, you'll want to choose varieties that hold their shape and flavour well during the baking process. Here are some strawberry varieties that are often recommended for baked goods: Jewel: Jewel strawberries are known for their firm texture, which makes them an excellent choice for baking. They hold up well and retain their shape and flavour, even when exposed to high temperatures in the oven. Albion: Albion strawberries are popular for their large size and firm texture, which makes them ideal for baking. They have a sweet flavour and their sturdy structure allows them to maintain their shape and texture in pies, tarts, and other baked goods. Fort Laramie: Fort Laramie strawberries are a June-bearing variety that is well-suited for baking. They have a firm and juicy texture and hold up well when cooked. Their sweet and tangy flavour adds a delightful taste to various baked treats. Hood: Hood strawberries are known for their intense flavour and aroma. They have a firm texture that withstands baking, making them a good choice for pies, cobblers, and other baked desserts. Sparkle: Sparkle strawberries are a June-bearing variety that is often used for baking. They have a slightly tart flavour and hold their shape well during cooking, making them suitable for pies, tarts, and other baked goods. When using strawberries in baked goods, it's important to remember that they release moisture when heated. To prevent excessive moisture, consider using slightly underripe strawberries or blotting them with a paper towel before incorporating them into your recipes. This can help maintain the texture and prevent the baked goods from becoming too soggy. Do you have any tips or tricks when it comes to growing your own strawberries? Share it with us in the comments or on our social media. We'd love to hear from you!

Thank you to our members who shared their favourite books with us! We've compiled the list and these are our top gardening books for beginners to experts in no specific order. Remember to contact your local bookstore and request a copy! #shoplocal Sue Stuart Smith's The Well Gardened Mind was my standout gardening read of the year! Her insight into why and how we garden and the benefits it brings to all of us and especially people with mental health problems was a revelation!! Big ups! Submitted by Debbylewisgardens Definitely Gardening from a Hammock by Dan Cooper is my go-to for inspiration. I love visuals, plant lists and suggestions suitable for our area. Fun Fact! Dan was a great speaker at our club via Zoom a year or two ago. Submitted by K. Pearson A Garden for the Rusty-Patched Bumblebee is a new book on native plant gardening in southern Ontario. Highly recommend! Submitted by L. Butcher The First-Time Gardener: Growing Vegetables: All the know-how and encouragement you need to grow - and fall in love with! - your brand new food garden (Volume 1); By Jessica Sowards Week-by-Week Vegetable Gardener's Handbook: Perfectly Timed Gardening for Your Most Bountiful Harvest Ever; By Jennifer Kujawski, Ron Kujawski What's Wrong With My Plant? (And How Do I Fix It?): A Visual Guide to Easy Diagnosis and Organic Remedies, by David Deardorff and Kathryn Wadsworth What's Wrong With My Vegetable Garden?: 100% Organic Solutions for All Your Vegetables, from Artichokes to Zucchini, by David Deardorff and Kathryn Wadsworth. Submitted by J. Steele The Year Round Vegetable Gardener by Niki Jabbour. Extend your growing season. The Organic Gardeners Handbook of Natural Pest and Disease Control by Bradley, Ellis and Martin. Complete guide to maintaining a healthy garden and yard the earth friendly way. Submitted by Waterloo Region Master Gardeners / Kitchener Master Gardeners. The Complete Gardener, by Monty Don Submitted by C. Bergsma Children's Gardening Books: The Garden Next Door, by Collin Pine Submitted by Lindsay B. Join the conversation on our Facebook page and add your favourite gardening book! We'll keep the list updated on this page.

Upcycling is a great way to give new life to old items while reducing waste. When it comes to planters, there are numerous creative ideas you can explore. “The act of taking something no longer in use and giving it a second life and new function. In doing so, the finished product often becomes more practical, valuable and beautiful than what it previously was.” UpcycleThat.com One of our members, D.W., shared her upcycling adventures with us: I have enjoyed using a little Buddha that a friend gave me as a hostess gift one year. He is very versatile. Other props I have are an old brass wash tub that can accomodate bigger plant designs. I also have an old Singer sewing machine stand that suits a shady spot under our maple tree. Recently my husband built me a table from a left over fence board. He spray painted 2 square plastic pots turquoise (acrylic spray paint) to match our umbrellas. (The pots were formerly lime green). I am happy with the modern looking result. The past 2 years I have had issues with squirrels digging up my planters and breaking the more delicate plants. They are burying their peanuts (in shells) that someone nearby is feeding them. In frustration, I have laid on the top of the soil this year thorny barberry bush clippings...and added in some cases plastic forks ( prong up) or green pointy sticks from Sticky sticks ( the ones used to catch fungus gnats). I read that coffee grinds will deter squirrels but alas we don't drink coffee here. However on my advice a friend tried this and is so far reporting success. Take a look at D.W.'s gorgeous planters: Here are some other ideas for using upcycled items as pots for your plants: Tin Cans: Clean and paint tin cans in various colours, and use them as planters. You can attach them to a wooden board or hang them on a wall to create a vertical garden. Mason Jars: Mason jars make charming planters. You can paint them, wrap them with twine, or decorate them with beads and ribbons. Hang them using wire or create a centrepiece by arranging them on a tray. Wine Bottles: Cut the bottom off wine bottles and use them as individual planters. You can paint them or leave them clear, and place them on a windowsill or hang them upside down to create a unique suspended garden. Old Furniture: Convert old drawers, wooden crates, or even a broken chair into planters. Line them with plastic or landscape fabric, add soil, and plant your favourite flowers or herbs. This idea works well for both indoor and outdoor gardens. Tea Tins: Empty tea tins with colourful designs can be transformed into eye-catching planters. Make sure to drill drainage holes in the bottom and fill them with potting soil for your plants. Rubber Boots: If you have outgrown or worn-out rubber boots, they can make playful and whimsical planters. Simply fill them with soil and add your plants. They are perfect for adding a touch of charm to your garden or porch. Vintage Containers: Look for old, unique containers like vintage teapots, metal buckets, or ceramic bowls at thrift stores or flea markets. With a little creativity, you can repurpose them into one-of-a-kind planters. Repurposed Tires: Paint and stack old tires to create a multi-tiered planter. This works particularly well for succulents and cascading plants. Be sure to fill each tire with soil and add drainage holes. Broken Pot Planters: If you have a broken clay pot, don't discard it! Use the larger pieces to create a tiered effect by partially burying them in the soil. It adds a whimsical touch to your garden. Hanging Bottles: Cut the tops off plastic soda bottles, paint or decorate them, and hang them upside down as small hanging planters. This technique works well for herbs or small flowering plants. Remember to consider the drainage needs of your plants when upcycling items into planters. Ensure proper drainage by drilling or creating holes at the bottom of your containers. Also, use suitable potting soil and provide the necessary care for your plants to thrive in their upcycled homes. Happy Gardening!

Whether you have a sunny windowsill or acreage, plants that can purify the air is a big plus. We'll be looking at easy-to-grow houseplants, garden plants (zone 5) and trees (zone 5) to help you make an informed choice: Houseplants Having houseplants can indeed help improve indoor air quality by filtering out pollutants and releasing oxygen. Here are some of the best houseplants known for their air-purifying qualities: Snake Plant (Sansevieria) Known for its ability to convert carbon dioxide into oxygen at night, snake plants are excellent air purifiers. They are also low-maintenance and can tolerate low light conditions. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum) Spider plants are great at removing formaldehyde and xylene from the air. They are resilient, easy to grow, and produce "spiderettes" that can be propagated into new plants. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum) Peace lilies are effective in removing common indoor air pollutants like benzene, formaldehyde, and trichloroethylene. They have beautiful white flowers and thrive in moderate to low light conditions. Aloe Vera (Aloe barbadensis) Apart from its medicinal properties, aloe vera is known for removing formaldehyde and benzene from the air. It requires minimal watering and prefers bright, indirect light. Boston Fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) Boston ferns are excellent at humidifying indoor air while removing pollutants like formaldehyde and xylene. They prefer bright, indirect light and moist soil. Bamboo Palm (Chamaedorea seifrizii) Bamboo palms are effective at removing formaldehyde, benzene, and carbon monoxide from the air. They thrive in indirect light and require regular watering. Rubber Plant (Ficus elastica) Rubber plants are great for removing formaldehyde from the air. They prefer bright, indirect light and regular watering, allowing the soil to dry partially between waterings. Remember that while these plants can help improve air quality, they are not a substitute for proper ventilation and other means of air purification. Additionally, some plants may be toxic to pets, so if you have pets, make sure to choose plants that are safe for them. Outdoor plants for improved air quality in zone 5 There are several zone 5 plants that can help improve air quality when grown outdoors. Here are some examples: Eastern Redcedar (Juniperus virginiana) This evergreen tree is native to North America and is known for its ability to filter pollutants from the air. It can tolerate a wide range of soil conditions and requires minimal maintenance. Golden Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) Although typically grown as a houseplant, Golden Pothos can also be grown outdoors in zone 5 during the warmer months. It has air-purifying qualities and can help remove toxins like formaldehyde from the air. Butterfly Milkweed (Asclepias tuberosa) This native perennial plant produces vibrant orange flowers that attract butterflies. It is well-suited for zone 5 and helps filter the air while providing important habitat for pollinators. New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) Asters are hardy, native perennials that thrive in zone 5. They produce beautiful, daisy-like flowers in various shades of purple and pink, attracting bees and butterflies while helping to improve air quality. Common Yarrow (Achillea millefolium) Common yarrow is a tough, adaptable perennial with fern-like foliage and clusters of tiny flowers. It can grow in a variety of soil conditions and attracts beneficial insects while filtering the air. Siberian Iris (Iris sibirica) Siberian iris is a hardy perennial that produces stunning, colorful blooms in various shades of blue, purple, and white. It can tolerate wetter soil conditions and helps improve air quality in zone 5 gardens. Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia) Russian sage is a drought-tolerant perennial with silver-gray foliage and spikes of lavender-blue flowers. It can thrive in zone 5 and has aromatic leaves that release a pleasant fragrance when brushed against. When selecting outdoor plants for air purification, it is essential to consider their suitability for your specific growing conditions, including sunlight exposure, soil type, and moisture levels. Choosing native species is also beneficial as they are well adapted to the local ecosystem. Trees that improve air quality Trees play a crucial role in cleaning the air by absorbing carbon dioxide and other pollutants while releasing oxygen. Here are some trees known for their air-purifying qualities: Silver Birch (Betula pendula) Silver birch trees are effective at capturing airborne pollutants, including nitrogen dioxide and particulate matter. They have beautiful white bark and can thrive in various soil types. Japanese Cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) Japanese cedar trees are known for their ability to absorb high levels of nitrogen dioxide, making them effective in urban environments. They have an attractive conical shape and can tolerate a range of soil conditions. Red Maple (Acer rubrum) Red maple trees are native to North America and are excellent at filtering out pollutants. They are adaptable to different soil types and provide vibrant fall foliage. Honey Locust (Gleditsia triacanthos) Honey locust trees have a high tolerance for urban environments and are efficient at absorbing pollutants such as sulfur dioxide and ozone. They have delicate foliage and thornless varieties are available. White Pine (Pinus strobus) White pine trees are known for their air-cleaning abilities and are particularly effective at capturing particulate matter. They have soft needles and can grow well in various soil types. London Plane Tree (Platanus x acerifolia) London plane trees are commonly planted in urban areas due to their ability to withstand pollution. They help filter particulate matter and have attractive mottled bark. Ginkgo (Ginkgo biloba) Ginkgo trees are unique and known for their fan-shaped leaves. They are effective at absorbing pollutants and can tolerate urban environments. Female ginkgo trees produce fruit, so planting male varieties is recommended to avoid the strong-smelling fruit. Oak (Quercus spp.) Oaks are robust and long-lived trees that contribute to air purification. They are known for their ability to capture and store carbon dioxide. Various oak species exist, so it's important to choose one suitable for your climate. Remember that trees take time to grow and reach their full air-cleaning potential. Additionally, the effectiveness of air purification can vary depending on factors such as tree size, density, and proximity to pollution sources. Planting a variety of trees in your area can have a cumulative positive impact on air quality. If you're looking for a deal on plants, our members get a discount at local nurseries! Happy Gardening!