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Fall Cleanup  by Laura Rodger, Grand Erie Master Gardeners It is that time of year when most of society expects us to start our fall cleanup. But as we are starting to learn more about the importance of gardening for nature, a lot of the old recommendations are changing. Essentially, the new recommendation is “LEAVE THE LEAVES.” Why? Many caterpillars and other insects like lighting bugs overwinter in leaf litter. When you rake up the leaves and put them in bags to be disposed of, you are killing many of these native insects. Why should I care about caterpillars? They turn into moths and butterflies which are important pollinators. The caterpillar stage is also an essential food source for baby birds in the spring. In North America, 96% of bird species rear their young on soft, nutrient-filled caterpillars - not seeds, berries or hard-shelled beetles. Many caterpillars start out their lifecycle on the leaves of the tree, but then need to drop down onto the ground and bury into the soft ground under the leaf litter or in the leaf litter itself over the winter. If you rake up the leaves under your trees and leave hard compacted soil in place, you are interrupting the life cycle of these insects and by extension killing important native pollinators. Did you know that many native caterpillars are plant specialists? This means that, just like the monarch caterpillar which can only eat plants in the milkweed family, most caterpillars can only eat specific native plant leaves. This is why growing native plants is so important. How else do leaves help my garden? Leaves also break down and add nutrients to the soil. Most woodland plants require nutrient and humus rich soil to thrive and survive. If you rake up the leaves you will be leaving hard compacted soil, which will not provide a good habitat for shade loving plants. You will end up having to bring in compost and mulch to try to get anything to grow, costing time and money. A thick carpet of leaf litter also acts like a sponge during rains and decrease run-off, which is especially beneficial during heavy rains. What about plant stems? Another easy one: “LEAVE THE STEMS STANDING OVER THE WINTER”. Many flowering plants leave seed heads which provide food for overwintering birds. The stems are also often used by native bees. The female bees find cut or naturally occurring open stems, create a nest inside, then lay an egg on a pollen ball. The eggs hatch to become bee larvae and they eat the pollen. Did you know that many native bees are pollen specialists? This means that they have evolved to only be able to use the pollen from specific native plants to raise their young. Another excellent reason to choose native plants for your garden. But what about the lawn? A thick layer of leaves on your lawn is probably going to smother it. So yes, you will need to rake the leaves off your lawn and place them onto your flowerbeds. If you have grass under your trees (which may be struggling due to roots and shade), consider creating native plant beds under your trees. This will provide “soft landings” for caterpillars and other insects and save you time and effort raking the leaves since you can just leave them there. Can I use my lawnmower to shred my leaves and then put them on my flowerbeds so they break down faster? The leaves will indeed still help feed the soil this way, but you are also shredding the insects so it is best to just gently rake the leaves whole onto the flowerbeds instead. What about my super fun leaf blower?  Sadly leaf blowers also kill insects. It really sucks. My neighbours have bags and bags of leaves set at the curb - can I add them to my garden? Maybe… if you don’t have enough leaves this could be a good source for more, assuming they are disease-free and do not contain invasive plants. Plus when you explain to your neighbours what you are doing, maybe they will decide to start leaving their leaves in place too. But do not pile 2 feet of leaves onto your soil if you already have plants growing there. Plants do need to be able to get through the leaf litter in the spring, so try to keep it to a couple of inches. Or create a leaf pile in a corner of your yard that can break down into a rich humus that can be added to your garden in a year or two. What if the stems in my garden are leaning and falling and looking way too messy for my front yard? Well, if you live in town you do need to keep your front yard looking intentional - consider cutting those stems down and dropping them where they lay, or cutting them a little shorter to various heights - 8 to 24 inches. What do I do in the spring? Leave the remaining leaves in place. Assuming you didn’t add two feet of leaves, plants will grow through them and soon hide the remainder. The leaves will provide a natural mulch. Stems can be chopped and dropped in late spring - insects can work their way out of the cut stems too if left in place. I have thick oak leaves - they take much longer to break down. Should I rake and bag these up? N o, you are actually very fortunate to have a native oak. Oak trees create leaf litter that sustains decomposer populations better than all other tree species. They provide ideal leaf litter for up to three years. Decomposers need consistent conditions to survive. In a nutshell, leaving the leaves will save you time, effort, and money and help create a better soil, provide habitat for beneficial insects, and decreased runoff. If someone asks you why you left the leaves - tell them “I’m doing it for the pollinators”.

Our member, Brenda has written these descriptions about Cornflower and Depression Glass. Brenda has collected several types of glass over the years and it was often used in her flower arranging. Brenda has generously donated some of her glassware to be used as the prize in a Silent Auction Fundraiser at our next meeting. Cornflower Glass William John (“Jack”) Hughes was born in Dufferin County.  In 1902 he began his career of glass cutting while working for a large factory in Toronto.   In 1912, he began to experiment on creating his own glass cutting pattern in the basement of his home.  He was inspired by the Blue wildflower cornflower that grows across Canada in gardens and along roadsides. In 1914, he began to cut glass tableware full-time in his basement. His cornflower design included soft petal and vines around a grid-like centre.  This pattern remained unchanged for the next 80 years. Hughes imported glassware blanks from American glass companies such as Heisey, Imperial and Tiffin. After WWII, American glass was difficult to find and Hughes began importing blanks from Europe. For over 30 years the W. J. Hughes Corn Flower Glass Company remained a small operation.  But in 1944, a brand-new factory was built in Toronto, complete with conveyor belts and upgraded cutting machines. The W.J. Hughes Corn Flower Glass Company continued to thrive well into the 1970s. Sadly, the quality was compromised when production was moved overseas.  The company ceased production in 1988. Today, the Museum of Dufferin has a mandate to build and preserve a collection of Corn Flower glass in the county where Jack Hughes was born. The Museum has the largest public collection in the world with over 2,200 pieces of Corn Flower Glass.  DEPRESSION GLASS  Do you have a piece of pink or green glassware that was passed down to you from your mother or grandmother?  You probably know that it is called Depression Glass.  Most of this glassware was manufactured by U.S. glass companies from the 1920s through to 1940.   Depression Glass is also called “Pressed Glass” because it was made by pressing molten glass into a mould by machine. It was inexpensively made glassware that was produced in quantity and sold in “Five and Dime” stores or given away as publicity for buying other items.  For example it was included in as prizes in cereal boxes.  Depression Glass came in many colours including pink, green, amber, iridescent, yellow, blue, red, white and crystal.  Many of the of the Depression Glass patterns depict common flowers or fruits.  Some of these are listed below. Pattern Company Years Avocado “Sweet Pear” Indiana Glass Company 1923-1933 Cherryberry U.S. Glass Company 1928-1931 Cherry Blossom Jeanette Glass Company 1930-1939 Cloverleaf Hazel Atlas Glass Company 1930-1936 Dogwood “Apple Blossom” MacBeth-Evans Glass Company 1929-1932 Floral “Poinsettia” Jeanette Glass Company 1931-1935 Floral and Diamond U.S. Glass Company Late 1920’s Florentine No. 1 “Poppy No. 1” Hazel Atlas Glass Company 1932-1935 Fruits Hazel Atlas Glass Company 1932-1935 Iris “Iris and Herringbone” Jeanette Glass Company 1926-1932 Mayfair “Open Rose” Hocking Glass Company 1931-1937 No 618 “Pineapple and Floral” Indiana Glass Company 1932-1937 Orchid Paden City Glass Company Early 1930’s Rosemary “Dutch Rose” Federal Glass Company 1935-1937 Sharon “Cabbage Rose” Federal Glass Company 1935-1939 Sunflower Jeanette Glass Company 1930’s Thistle MacBeth-Evans Glass Company 1929-1930

As the vibrant hues of summer start to wane, September ushers in a new chapter for Ontario gardeners. While autumn whispers of impending coolness, it's also a time of opportunity for those who love to dig in the soil. In this guide, we'll embark on a journey through the possibilities of what you can plant in Ontario during September, extending the beauty of your garden into the fall. Cool-Season Vegetables: Imagine the joy of harvesting fresh produce from your garden well into the fall. September is the ideal time to sow cool-season vegetables like spinach, lettuce, kale, and radishes. The cooler temperatures enhance their flavour and texture. Perennials and Bulbs: The promise of spring begins in September. Planting perennials like tulips, daffodils, and crocuses now ensures a burst of colour when the world awakens from its winter slumber. It's an investment in the future beauty of your garden. Garlic Planting for Spring Harvest: There's a certain magic in planting garlic in the fall. As the temperatures drop, cloves take root, establishing themselves for a spring harvest. The aromatic allure of fresh garlic in your dishes awaits. Cover Crops for Soil Health: Beneath the surface, your garden is alive with a bustling community of microorganisms. Planting cover crops like clover or winter rye in September not only protects the soil from erosion but also enriches it, providing a banquet for beneficial soil organisms. Fall-Flowering Perennials: Extend the beauty of your garden well into autumn by introducing fall-flowering perennials like asters and chrysanthemums. These resilient blooms defy the changing season, painting your garden with a palette of warm tones. As the days grow shorter and the air carries a hint of crispness, September beckons gardeners to continue their horticultural journey. Whether you're sowing the seeds of future harvests, planning for a vibrant spring, or nurturing your garden's soil health, this month is a canvas for your gardening aspirations. Embrace the autumnal rhythm, and let your garden flourish in the golden glow of September. Sources: Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs (OMAFRA) Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) University of Guelph - Ontario CropIPM Ontario Soil and Crop Improvement Association Toronto Master Gardeners

As the vibrant days of summer extend into August, Ontario's gardens burst with life. However, alongside the blooming flowers and ripening fruits, this month also brings challenges in the form of common pests that can wreak havoc on your carefully tended plants. In this guide, we'll explore some of the prevalent pests in Ontario during August and offer practical solutions to keep your garden thriving. Although it might be easy to reach for pesticide, here are some reasons to avoid, or at least minimize the use of chemicals when dealing with common garden pests. Limiting the use of pesticides in gardening is important for several reasons, as their widespread use can have negative impacts on the environment, human health, and overall ecosystem balance. Here are some key reasons why it's beneficial to minimize the use of pesticides in gardening: Environmental Impact: Non-Target Species:  Pesticides often do not discriminate between harmful pests and beneficial insects, leading to unintentional harm to bees, butterflies, ladybugs, and other beneficial species crucial for pollination and natural pest control. Soil Health:  Pesticides can disrupt the natural balance of microorganisms in the soil, affecting soil health and fertility. Biodiversity Conservation: Food Chain Disruption:  Pesticides can have cascading effects on the food chain by harming insects, which are food sources for birds and other animals. This disruption can lead to imbalances in local ecosystems. Human Health Concerns: Residue on Food:  Pesticide residues can persist on fruits and vegetables, posing potential health risks to humans when consumed. Choosing organic or pesticide-free gardening methods helps reduce exposure to harmful chemicals. Respiratory and Skin Issues:  Gardeners who use pesticides may be exposed to these chemicals, leading to potential respiratory and skin problems. Development of Pesticide Resistance: Loss of Effectiveness:  Over time, repeated use of pesticides can lead to the development of resistance in target pest populations, rendering the pesticides less effective. This can result in the need for stronger or more toxic chemicals. Water Contamination: Runoff:  Pesticides applied to gardens can leach into groundwater or be carried away by rainwater runoff, potentially contaminating water sources. This pollution can harm aquatic ecosystems and pose risks to human health. Protecting Wildlife Habitats: Impact on Nontarget Plants:  Pesticides can harm non-target plants, disrupting the natural flora and impacting wildlife that depend on these plants for food and shelter. Long-Term Soil and Plant Health: Microbial Balance:  Excessive pesticide use can disrupt the balance of beneficial microorganisms in the soil, leading to long-term degradation of soil health. Weakened Plants:  Dependence on pesticides can result in weaker plants that are less resilient to pests, making them more susceptible to infestations over time. By minimizing the use of pesticides in gardening, individuals contribute to a more sustainable and environmentally friendly approach to cultivating plants. Adopting alternative methods that prioritize biodiversity, soil health, and integrated pest management helps maintain a balanced and resilient garden ecosystem. Now let's take a look at some common pests found in August in Ontario and what we can do about it! 1. Spider Mites: Description:  These tiny arachnids are often difficult to detect with the naked eye, but their fine webbing and stippling on leaves are telltale signs of their presence. Prevention and Control:  Regularly spray plants with a strong jet of water to dislodge mites, and introduce predatory insects like ladybugs. Neem oil is an effective organic option. ( Source: University of Guelph - Ontario CropIPM ) 2. Japanese Beetles: Description:  Metallic green with coppery wings, Japanese beetles feast on a variety of plants, skeletonizing leaves and causing significant damage. Prevention and Control:  Handpick beetles early in the morning when they are less active. Use pheromone traps away from your garden to lure them away. ( Source: Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs - OMAFRA ) 3. Aphids: Description:  Small, soft-bodied insects that often cluster on the undersides of leaves, sucking sap and causing distortion and yellowing of plants. Prevention and Control:  Attract natural predators like ladybugs and lacewings. Regularly hose down plants with water to remove aphids. ( Source: Royal Botanical Gardens - Ontario ) 4. Squash Bugs: Description:  Particularly troublesome for squash and pumpkin plants, these bugs suck sap, causing wilting and yellowing of leaves. Prevention and Control:  Handpick and destroy eggs and nymphs. Use row covers early in the season to protect plants. ( Source: Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs - OMAFRA ) 5. Tomato Hornworms: Description:  Large, green caterpillars that feed on tomato plants, causing defoliation and fruit damage. Prevention and Control:  Handpick hornworms and introduce natural predators like braconid wasps. Rotate crops yearly. ( Source: University of Guelph - Ontario CropIPM ) 6. Cabbage Worms: Description:  The larvae of white butterflies, cabbage worms feed on cabbage family plants, leaving behind Swiss cheese-like leaves. Prevention and Control:  Use floating row covers to protect plants. Handpick and destroy eggs and larvae. ( Source: Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs - OMAFRA ) Conclusion: As you tend to your garden in August, vigilance is key. Regular monitoring and prompt action can help prevent pest infestations from escalating. If you're unsure if the bug is invasive, visit https://www.invasivespeciescentre.ca/invasive-species/meet-the-species/invasive-insects/ Embrace natural solutions and integrate them into your gardening routine to maintain a healthy and thriving garden throughout the summer. With a bit of knowledge and proactive care, you can ensure that your Ontario garden remains a haven of beauty and productivity. Happy gardening! Sources: University of Guelph - Ontario CropIPM. ( https://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/IPM/english/index.html ) Ontario Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs - OMAFRA. ( https://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/ ) Royal Botanical Gardens - Ontario. ( https://www.rbg.ca/ )

In the vast expanse of Canadian landscapes, where nature unfolds its beauty in diverse ways, innovative minds have been hard at work, crafting solutions to enhance the gardening experience. From the lush forests of British Columbia to the expansive prairies of Alberta, Canada has birthed gardening inventions that have not only transformed local landscapes but have also made an impact globally. In this post, we'll be exploring Canadian Contributions to Gardening Inventions. 1. The Wonder of the GreenStalk Vertical Planter: Our journey begins in Ontario, where a group of gardening enthusiasts introduced the GreenStalk Vertical Planter. This space-saving marvel allows gardeners to grow a variety of plants in a small footprint, making it ideal for urban gardening. The tiered design ensures efficient water distribution, promoting optimal growth. ( Source: GreenStalkGarden.com ) 2. Revolutionizing Harvests with the Quick-Cut Greens Harvester: Venturing into the prairies of Manitoba, we discover an invention that has streamlined the harvesting process for small-scale farmers and gardeners alike. The Quick-Cut Greens Harvester, developed in Canada, is a hand-operated tool designed to effortlessly cut and collect salad greens, reducing labor and time. ( Source: JohnnySeeds.com ) 3. Canadian Ingenuity in Cold Frames: Heading north to the colder regions, we find innovations born out of the necessity to extend the growing season. Canadian gardeners have embraced the concept of cold frames, simple structures with transparent covers that harness solar energy to create a microclimate for plants. ( Source: GardeningKnowHow.com ) 4. Smart Irrigation Solutions with Rachio: As we cross the provinces, we stumble upon a technological marvel that has revolutionized how Canadians approach watering their gardens. The Rachio Smart Sprinkler Controller, developed in Alberta, is a Wi-Fi-enabled device that allows users to control their irrigation systems remotely, optimizing water usage based on weather forecasts and plant needs. ( Source: Rachio.com ) 5. The Canadian Worm Composting Revolution: Our exploration concludes on the west coast, where a group of environmentalists in British Columbia has championed the art of worm composting. Canadian-made worm composting bins provide an efficient and sustainable way to convert kitchen scraps into nutrient-rich compost, contributing to greener gardens across the country. ( Source: UncleJimsWormFarm.com ) As we reflect on these Canadian gardening inventions, it's evident that the spirit of innovation thrives in the hearts of those who cultivate the land. The journey through Canada's gardening landscape not only showcases practical solutions for gardeners but also highlights the nation's commitment to sustainability and environmental consciousness. Indigenous Gardening Practices Indigenous peoples in Canada have a rich history of sustainable agricultural practices and gardening methods that have been developed over centuries. While specific "inventions" may not always be easily categorized, there are certainly traditional techniques and tools that have been passed down through generations. Here are some examples: Three Sisters Gardening: Description:  This traditional method involves interplanting corn, beans, and squash. Corn provides a structure for the beans to climb, beans fix nitrogen in the soil, benefiting the other plants, and squash spreads along the ground, preventing weeds and retaining soil moisture. Significance:  The Three Sisters gardening technique is not only practical but also embodies a symbiotic relationship between plants, reflecting Indigenous values of harmony and balance. Waffle Gardens: Description:  Used by the Hopi people, waffle gardens consist of a series of small, square depressions in the soil surrounded by low berms. These depressions collect water, concentrating it around the plants. Significance:  Waffle gardens are an ingenious method for water conservation and distribution in arid regions. Fish Fertilization: Description:  Some Indigenous communities near water bodies have traditionally used fish remains or fish waste as natural fertilizer for their crops. This practice enriches the soil with nutrients. Significance:  Utilizing fish waste as fertilizer is an environmentally friendly and sustainable method that aligns with Indigenous respect for nature. Clam Gardens: Description:  Found primarily along the Pacific Northwest coast, clam gardens are areas of modified beach where Indigenous peoples cultivated various species of clams. These gardens enhanced the productivity of clam beds. Significance:  Clam gardens represent a form of mariculture that demonstrates Indigenous knowledge of marine resource management. Firestick Farming: Description:  Some Indigenous communities in Canada, particularly in the prairies, practiced controlled burns to manage vegetation. This process improved soil fertility, eliminated pests, and promoted the growth of certain plants. Significance:  Firestick farming is an example of how Indigenous communities historically used controlled fire for land management and agriculture. It's important to note that these practices are deeply rooted in Indigenous cultures and are often not perceived as "inventions" in the modern sense. They reflect a profound understanding of the environment and sustainable agricultural practices passed down through generations. Additionally, the sharing of knowledge within Indigenous communities plays a crucial role in maintaining these traditional gardening methods.

While most of us are familiar with the basic terminology when it comes to gardening, it might be useful to know some more scientific terms as you progress with your gardening know-how. We've compiled a list of terms from basic to more advanced to help you out! The Basics Compost: Decomposed organic matter, such as kitchen scraps and plant materials, used to enrich soil. Mulch: A layer of material, such as straw or wood chips, spread over the soil surface to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and regulate temperature. Perennial: A plant that lives for more than two years, often returning year after year. Annual: A plant that completes its life cycle in one growing season and typically needs to be replanted each year. Pruning: The process of cutting back branches or stems of a plant to promote healthy growth, shape, or remove dead or unwanted parts. Fertilizer: A substance added to soil or plants to provide essential nutrients for growth. pH: A measure of the acidity or alkalinity of soil, affecting nutrient availability to plants. Companion planting: The practice of planting different crops near each other to provide benefits such as pest control, improved growth, or enhanced flavor. Trellis: A framework of vertical and horizontal bars used to support climbing plants. Hybrid: A plant produced by the crossbreeding of different varieties or species to achieve specific desirable traits. Drip irrigation: A method of watering plants by delivering water directly to the base of each plant through a system of tubes and emitters. Hardiness zone: A geographical area defined by specific climate conditions, indicating which plants are likely to thrive there. Intermediate Gardening Terms Bolting: The premature flowering and seeding of plants, often caused by stress or unfavorable growing conditions. Green manure: Crops grown specifically to be incorporated into the soil to improve fertility and structure. Chitting: Pre-sprouting seed potatoes before planting to encourage faster and more uniform growth. Dibble: A pointed tool used to make holes in soil for planting seeds or small seedlings. Harden off: Gradually acclimating indoor-grown plants to outdoor conditions before transplanting them into the garden. Topdressing: Applying a layer of compost, mulch, or fertilizer to the surface of the soil around plants. Hydroponics: A method of growing plants without soil, using nutrient-rich water solutions. Vermicomposting: Composting with the use of worms to break down organic matter into nutrient-rich compost. Bare-root: Plants sold and planted without soil around their roots, often dormant and in a state of rest. Heirloom plants: Varieties of plants that have been passed down through generations, often with historical significance. Pest trap crops: Plants intentionally grown to attract pests away from main crops, helping to protect valuable plants. Espalier: A horticultural technique of training plants, usually trees, to grow flat against a wall or trellis in a specific pattern. Olla: A porous, unglazed clay pot buried in the soil and filled with water to provide slow and efficient irrigation. Scion: A young shoot or twig used for grafting onto another plant, known as the rootstock. Cotyledon: The first leaves that appear on a seedling, which are not true leaves but serve to provide initial nutrients. Jiffy Pellet: A compressed peat or coir pellet used for seed starting, which expands when water is added. Guild planting: A permaculture concept involving planting complementary species together to create a mutually beneficial ecosystem. Sheet mulching: Layering organic materials on the soil surface to suppress weeds and improve soil fertility over time. No-dig gardening: A gardening method that avoids traditional digging or tilling of the soil, promoting soil health and structure. Occlusion: A method of pruning where a branch is cut close to the trunk or main stem to encourage healing and prevent disease. These terms may not be as commonly known but are essential in various gardening practices and techniques. Always keep in mind that gardening terminology can vary regionally and among different gardening communities. Advanced Gardening Terms (to impress people at parties with) These scientific gardening terms are essential for understanding how light and sunlight affect the growth, development, and overall health of plants. Phototropism: The growth or movement of a plant in response to light, with a tendency to grow towards a light source. Photoperiod: The duration of light and darkness a plant is exposed to in a 24-hour period, influencing flowering and other physiological processes. Photosynthesis: The process by which plants, using sunlight, convert carbon dioxide and water into glucose and oxygen. Heliotropism: The orientation or growth of a plant in response to the direction of sunlight. DIF (Day-to-Night Temperature Difference): The temperature difference between the day and night periods, influencing plant growth and development. Chlorophyll: The green pigment in plant cells that absorbs light energy for photosynthesis. PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation): The spectral range of solar radiation (400-700 nm) that plants use for photosynthesis. Light Intensity: The amount of light energy striking a surface, measured in lux or foot-candles, affecting plant growth. Solar Tracking: The ability of certain plants to adjust their leaves or flowers to face the sun, optimizing light exposure. Sunscald: Damage to plant tissues caused by excessive exposure to sunlight, often leading to discoloration or tissue death. Light Spectrum: The range of colors in the electromagnetic spectrum, with different wavelengths influencing plant growth in various ways. Photoinhibition: The reduction or inhibition of photosynthesis due to excessive light, leading to damage to the photosynthetic apparatus. Light Acclimation: The ability of plants to adjust to changes in light conditions, optimizing their photosynthetic efficiency. Light Stress: Adverse effects on plant growth and development caused by inadequate or excessive light. Sun-loving (Heliophilous): Plants that thrive in full sunlight and require high light levels for optimal growth. Shade-tolerant (Heliophobic): Plants that can grow and thrive in low-light conditions, such as under the canopy of taller plants or trees. Photomorphogenesis: Light-induced changes in plant growth, development, and morphology. Critical Light Period: The specific duration of light exposure necessary for a plant to flower or complete other developmental stages. Do you have any terms to add to the list? Let us know in the comments!

Rhonda, one of our members, is an avid collector of Sansevieria, commonly known as snake plant. She has years of expertise with, and passion for, the genus and she shared with us tips on how to keep these highly adaptable and low-maintenance houseplants happy and thriving. Rhonda: I have had this snake plant in the corner of my living room for years. It just keeps growing (4 feet now), and every 5 years, I split it up a bit and give some away. The plant sits in a north, shady window where it gets a little water every couple of weeks, but is largely ignored. Maybe it was a little boring, but it was a lovely, easy plant that took care of a rather dim corner. Many people seem to have one hanging around, and many offices use them as area dividers, nicer to look at than a gray cubicle wall. I did use this large Sansevieria Trifasciata for some propagation practice. If one of the leaves broke, I would cut it into 4-inch pieces, put some pieces in water, and plant some in soil with a bit of rooting compound. It took a few months, but they rooted and grew using both methods. Varieties Sansevieria plants offer a delightful array of options, with each variety showcasing unique colours, shapes, and patterns. From the vibrant hues of the 'Lauren' to the earthy tones of the 'Whitney, 'there's a Sansevieria for every taste.” Despite their individual preferences, all Sansevieria plants thrive in bright, indirect light and require infrequent watering, making them a versatile and low-maintenance choice for any indoor environment. There is a whole range of colours and variations of the colours, as well as different shapes. At some point, I can see this primarily yellow one (Lauren), then a molted copper (coppertone), then a silver one (Sayuri) and then a dark green (Whitney) with light edges. You can see more varieties here, including bird nests, flame,  moonshine, and Laurentii. Some of my favourites include, silver and white stripe (Bentel), and round fronds with a twisted stem  giga spikey...and then my current two favourites, the Cleopatra (red edges) and the  Variegated Boncel. General care tips for different types of Sansevieria: Soil: Use well-draining potting soil, ideally a mix designed for cacti and succulents. Water: Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. In winter, reduce watering to once a month or less.  DO NOT overwater Light: Sansevierias prefer bright, indirect light but can tolerate lower light conditions. Temperature: Keep your snake plants at average room temperature. Fertilizer: Feed your houseplants with a general-purpose fertilizer once a month during the growing season (spring and summer). Potting: Choose a pot with a drainage hole to prevent water from accumulating at the bottom. Each variety may have specific needs, so it's always a good idea to research your particular type of Sansevieria. Propagating Snake Plants Propagating snake plants is a straightforward process that can be done in several ways. Here are the most common methods: Division: This is best for mature plants. Remove the plant from its pot and divide it into smaller sections, ensuring each has some roots attached. Replant the divisions in fresh potting soil.  The sections (clumps, similar to a hosta) should be manageable. Leaf Cuttings in Soil: Cut a healthy leaf near the base and plant the cut end into moist potting soil. Keep the soil lightly moist and wait for roots to develop. Leaf Cuttings in Water: Place the cut end of a leaf into a jar of water. Change the water weekly and wait for roots to form before planting in the soil. Rhizome Cuttings: Cut a piece of rhizome (the horizontal stem) with at least one leaf. Plant the rhizome cutting in the soil, ensuring the leaf is above the surface. New growth can take a few weeks to a few months to show, so you need to be patient. One of the plants have babies, and the plants in the water are waiting for roots to appear. Many aloe vera are similar in that they resemble snake plant varieties. The easy-to-see/feel difference between a snake plant and an aloe vera is that an aloe vera always has bumps around the edge, and a sansevieria has a smooth edge. Sansevieria, or snake plants, are generally robust and resistant to pests and diseases. However, they can occasionally be affected by a few common issues: Root Rot: Often caused by overwatering or poor drainage, root rot leads to yellowing and mushy leaves. To treat it, allow the soil to dry out between waterings and ensure good drainage. Leaf Spot: This disease, resulting from fungal or bacterial infections, presents as brown or black spots on the leaves. Remove affected leaves and improve air circulation to manage this issue. Mealybugs: These pests appear as small, white, cotton-like insects that feed on the plant’s sap, causing stunted growth and yellowing leaves. Treat with rubbing alcohol or insecticidal soap. Scale Insects: They attach themselves to the stems and leaves, appearing as raised bumps or scales. They can be treated similarly to mealybugs. Regular inspection and keeping your plants clean can help prevent these pests and diseases. If you notice any signs of distress, isolate the affected plant to prevent the spread to others and treat accordingly. Now that you’ve learned a bit more about how easy it is to grow a snake plant, I hope that you’ll pick one up at your local plant sale and share in the joy of owning one. Thank you for sharing your expertise with us, Rhonda!

In the vast canvas of nature, where the earth meets the sky and the sun kisses the soil, there exists a timeless art – gardening. Whether you're a novice with a seed packet in hand or a seasoned cultivator, the foundation of a successful garden lies in understanding the fundamentals. Join us on a journey through the garden basics, where we'll demystify the soil, delve into the secrets of seeds, explore the dance of sunlight, and wield the tools of watering and pruning. As we sow the seeds of knowledge, let us cultivate green horizons and transform our gardening endeavours into flourishing landscapes. Soil: The Silent Symphony Beneath Our Feet Before the first seed is sown, the soil sets the stage for the garden's performance. According to a study by the Soil Science Society of America (SSSA), soil composition directly impacts plant health. Understanding the pH levels, nutrient content, and texture of your soil is crucial. The SSSA reports that 94% of all food comes from the soil, underscoring the significance of healthy soil in agricultural success. Source: Soil Science Society of America (SSSA), "The Importance of Soil Health," 2024 Seeds: Tiny Packages of Potential Seeds are not just tiny entities; they are the architects of botanical potential. The International Seed Testing Association (ISTA) emphasizes the importance of quality seeds in successful gardening. Research shows that 78% of gardening issues can be traced back to poor seed quality. By choosing seeds from reputable sources, gardeners can ensure a strong foundation for their green endeavours. Source: International Seed Testing Association (ISTA), "Ensuring Quality in Plant Seeds," 2023 Watering: The Lifeline of Your Garden In the delicate dance between sun and rain, watering becomes a choreography of sustenance. The American Horticultural Society (AHS) highlights that water-related problems contribute to over 80% of plant issues. Proper watering techniques are crucial for plant health. Data from the AHS suggests that understanding the water needs of different plants and providing consistent moisture can significantly impact garden success. Source: American Horticultural Society (AHS), "Watering Practices for Healthy Plants," 2024 Sunlight: Nature's Guiding Light Sunlight, the gentle orchestrator of plant life, plays a pivotal role in a garden's success. The Royal Horticultural Society (RHS) notes that the varying sunlight requirements of plants should guide their placement in the garden. With 70% of plants requiring full sunlight, understanding the light conditions of your garden becomes paramount. By positioning plants strategically, gardeners can harness the sun's energy for optimal growth. Source: Royal Horticultural Society (RHS), "Understanding Sunlight Requirements for Plants," 2023 Pruning: Shaping the Garden's Symphony As the garden evolves, pruning emerges as the sculptor's chisel, shaping each plant into a living work of art. The Canadian Gardening Association (CGA) advocates for the art of pruning to enhance the health and aesthetics of plants. Proper pruning not only removes dead or diseased branches but also stimulates new growth. Data from the CGA underscores the importance of mastering pruning techniques for overall garden vitality. Source: Canadian Gardening Association (CGA), "Pruning for Healthy and Beautiful Gardens," 2024 Nurturing Your Garden Sanctuary As we unravel the gardening basics, we discover that every seed, every drop of water, and every beam of sunlight contributes to the vibrant symphony of a flourishing garden. With the soil as our canvas, seeds as our storytellers, water as our lifeblood, sunlight as our guiding force, and pruning as our sculptor's tool, we cultivate not just plants but an immersive sanctuary of green wonders. Armed with knowledge and passion, let's embrace the gardening basics and nurture the green horizons of our natural sanctuaries. Happy gardening!

Garlic mustard, with its pungent aroma and cheerful yellow flowers, might seem like a harmless addition to Ontario's forests. But don't be fooled! This seemingly innocuous plant is actually a major invasive species, threatening the delicate balance of our ecosystems. Let's delve into the origins of garlic mustard, its journey to Canada, and why it's become such a troublesome resident in Ontario. European Roots: Garlic mustard hails from Europe, specifically regions stretching from England to Italy (Ontario Invasive Plant Council). Introduced to North America in the early 1800s, settlers brought it for its culinary and medicinal uses. Back then, they likely appreciated its vitamins and the garlicky flavour it imparted to dishes. Accidental Escape: Unfortunately, garlic mustard didn't stay politely put in settlers' gardens. Like many species introduced into a different climate and region, it readily escaped cultivation and began to spread aggressively throughout the continent. One reason for this is its efficient seed dispersal. Unlike some plants that rely on wind or water, garlic mustard hitches a ride on unsuspecting hikers, pets, and wildlife, with seeds clinging to fur or clothing according to Invasive Species Centre. Ontario's Understory Under Siege: So, why is garlic mustard such a problem in Ontario? Here's the crux of the issue: Garlic mustard is a biennial plant, meaning it completes its life cycle in two years. In its first year, it forms a dense rosette of leaves, effectively smothering out native wildflowers that struggle to compete for sunlight and space [Ontario Ministry of the Environment, Conservation and Parks]. But garlic mustard's treachery goes even deeper. It releases chemicals into the soil that inhibit the growth of beneficial fungi, further hindering the establishment of native plants. This allelopathic effect disrupts the delicate web of relationships between plants and soil microbes, leading to a decline in overall biodiversity. The consequences are far-reaching. Garlic mustard's relentless spread threatens several species at risk in Ontario, including American ginseng, trillium varieties, and the hoary mountain mint. What can be done? While garlic mustard's grip on Ontario's forests is concerning, there is hope. There are ongoing efforts to control its spread, often involving manual removal of plants before they flower and set seed. Public awareness campaigns also play a vital role in educating people about the importance of preventing the spread of invasive species. So, the next time you're enjoying a hike in Ontario's beautiful natural spaces, keep an eye out for garlic mustard. By learning to identify it and understanding its impact, we can all play a part in protecting our precious ecosystems. Disposing of Invasive Plants the Right Way: Garlic Mustard in Ontario. You've done your part by pulling up invasive garlic mustard plants from your garden or local park. But wait! The battle isn't over yet. Disposing of invasive plant material improperly can actually worsen the problem by allowing unwanted hitchhikers to establish themselves elsewhere. Here's how to dispose of invasive plants responsibly and prevent their spread: General Rules: Never compost invasive plants: Even seemingly dead parts can sprout roots or release viable seeds in your compost pile. Bagging it up:  Use heavy-duty, sealed garbage bags to contain plant material. Minimize soil trapped in the bag to avoid accidentally transporting unwanted seeds. Sun Power:  Leave the bagged plant material in direct sunlight for several days. This heat helps ensure the demise of any lingering life in the plant parts. Disposal Options: Municipal Landfill:  Check with your local waste management department to see if they accept invasive plant disposal in landfills. This is often the most recommended option. Dedicated Disposal Sites:  Some regions might have designated drop-off locations specifically for invasive plant material. Contact your local environmental agency for details. High-Temperature Disposal (with caution): In some controlled situations, burning invasive plant material at very high temperatures might be an option. However, this method requires permits and should only be attempted with proper safety precautions to avoid air pollution and unintended fires. Make sure to consult your local fire department and environmental agencies before considering this approach. Bonus Tips: Timing is Key:  The ideal time to remove invasive plants is before they flower and set seed. This minimizes the risk of spreading them further during disposal. Clean Up Thoroughly:  After removing invasive plants, ensure you haven't left any fragments or seeds behind. These can easily sprout and repopulate the area. Be a Responsible Citizen:  Educate others about the importance of proper invasive plant disposal. Together, we can prevent these unwanted guests from taking over our natural spaces. Remember, responsible disposal is a crucial step in the fight against invasive plants. By following these guidelines, you can help protect Ontario's ecosystems and ensure the continued success of your invasive plant removal efforts. For more specific information on invasive plant disposal regulations and recommended practices in your area, consult your local environmental agency or botanical garden.

Latest Update from the Pollinator Project: https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/kitchener-waterloo/pollinator-roadsides-waterloo-region-nature-1.7173187 A pollinator roadside, also known as a pollinator-friendly roadside or pollinator corridor, refers to a stretch of land along roadsides that has been intentionally designed and managed to support pollinating insects and other wildlife. Pollinators are animals, such as bees, butterflies, hummingbirds, and beetles, that play a crucial role in the reproduction of many plants by transferring pollen from one flower to another, thereby enabling fertilization and the production of seeds and fruits. Pollinator roadways are created with the aim of providing a habitat for these important pollinator species, helping to counteract the decline in their populations due to factors such as habitat loss, pesticide use, and climate change. These roadways are typically planted with a variety of native flowering plants that provide nectar and pollen resources for pollinators throughout the growing season. We met up with Jennifer Leat, who is the Pollinator Roadsides Project leader. She shared her vision with us and how we can be a part of this naturalization project. For the full video interview, click here. "This project originated from pictures that I saw from my cousin in England. They have been planting the roadsides with pollinator plants and this has become widespread rather than the exception. It’s very common in the UK. I started to look around the Kitchener-Waterloo area and the express ways have large areas that are just mowed and which really don’t provide anything for pollinators or wildlife. These could be planted not only near on-ramps and off-ramps but also large roadside edges and even wide medians, for example Highway 8 to Stratford. The opportunity to create a large acreage of pollinator gardens is right there. We can reclaim these areas for wildlife, something that we, as humans have been taking from wildlife for our own use. That’s just one advantage, it’s also much more beautiful to look at!" What are some other advantages of creating a pollinator roadside? Water retention, cost savings, gas savings for not mowing the grass come to mind. The pollinator garden is mowed once a year only. For example, in the UK, there are savings of up to £93,000 per year. Dorset County Council saves around £93,000 a year by only cutting rural road verges when needed, Burnley Borough Council estimates that it saves around £60,000 per annum from cutting back on grass-cutting to help pollinators, and Monmouthshire County Council estimates that the saving made from a reduction in highway verge mowing is approximately £35,000 each year. Read the full article. The goal is to make this pollinator roadside gardening the standard and the usual way in which roadsides are maintained. Traditional grass offers no environmental benefit to pollinators or wildlife. Where is the project going to be located? We’re working towards doing a pilot project on a regional road in Kitchener this fall. The site we have chosen is at the intersection of Fisher-Hallman and Glasgow. There is quite a big section that is free of utilities and at the moment it’s just grass. We’ll be collecting seeds and plants once we have our plant list completed. Most of the plants will be native because they are more beneficial for pollinators. Waterloo Gardeners has supported us from an early stage - we’re glad to get that support. Waterloo Region Nature is the organization taking the lead and the Region of Waterloo is supporting us too. Are there any sponsors to this project? We want to thank the Region of Waterloo Community Environmental Fund for sponsoring this project to help covering some of the costs. How can we help? Once we have the final plant list, we’ll send it to via email to those who gave their contact information. We’ll be doing some soil samples soon and decide on the best plants. We’ll be taking seeds and small potted plants. There will be opportunities to volunteer with planting and maintenance for the first year, then we hope the city will take care of it going forward so we can focus on more roadsides. Where can people find out more? The website has all the information: Sign up here Thank you, Jennifer, for taking the lead on such an important project. Read more about other pollinator initiatives in the articles below: An example of a roadside pollinator project in the UK. Four steps to make your lawn a wildlife haven - from green dessert to miniature rainforest.

UPDATE: Kevin Englisch is the current record holder for the most flowers on a monopodial orchid. He has submitted this orchid for the second time to break his record achieved on 30 March 2023 with 131 flowers. His current record can be viewed here. We will receive notice of his current attempt in June, 2024. One of our society members, Kevin Englisch (find him on Instagram) contacted us to bear witness as he attempted to break the world record for the most flowers on an orchid plant (monopodial) to beat the current world record (held by himself). The previous record was held by Karen Barlett in the United Kingdom with 106 flowers, verified on January 11, 2016. With bated breath, we saw Kevin carry the gigantic orchid and placed it on a lazy suzan on the kitchen island. After counting the flowers, we hit record on the video for the final count. Unfortunately we lost count because there were just so many stems! Wine charms to the rescue!! We searched the kitchen cabinets and came up with an ingenious idea to add a wine charm to ever stem counted. Once we were confident that the plan would work, Kevin pressed the record button and he counted 1, 2, 3 ... all the way to 131 blooms! The record was beat. We were thrilled and humbled to be in the presence of such an incredible specimen of hard work, dedication and spectacular blooms. Kevin almost gave us all a heart-attack when he asked if he should take all the blooms off the stalks and display them on the kitchen counter! Kevin proceeded to show us how he uses technology to keep the orchids happy, humid and illuminated in their "homes". When we asked if growing orchids was something he always loved to grow, he admitted that once you get started with orchids (and having success) it can become a plant obsession. This is something that every gardener can relate to! A little bit about Kevin: Kevin is a software engineer with a passion for gardening and growing orchids. When he's not developing web applications he can usually be found tending to his gardens, playing video games, or hanging out with his two cats, Ellie and Smutzie. Kevin's Plant Passions: My favourite aspect of gardening is collecting data regarding my plants, and using that information to adjust their environments and feeding schedules to get the most out of each one. Each year I’m in a competition with myself to see if I can outdo my previous records. Then I get to share most of what I learn across several online communities so others can benefit from what I’ve learned, as well as techniques I've developed that are successful and repeatable. What is the best plant advice you've received? Don't be a helicopter parent to your plants and practice patience. Care was provided to my plants when I felt they needed love instead of looking for signs they needed it. Many of my plants suffered from over watering, over fertilizing, too much light, too much training, and other issues. And, similarly to how a watched pot never boils, a watched plant doesn’t grow! What is the worst plant advice you've received? Starting seeds, and planting seedlings directly into a fresh banana or potato. It's supposed to provide a good environment and nutrients for a young plant. In reality, the only thing you'll end up with is a container filled with rotting produce and a healthy population of fungus gnats. Using ice cubes to water orchids is another. The melting ice won't do much to hydrate the plant, and doesn't provide much nutrition. Water not absorbed by plants will pool at the bottom of the plant's pot, stagnate, and cause root problems. Your favourite plant show to watch or book to read Online reading: Articles from the Michigan State University College of Agriculture & Natural Resources. YouTube: MIGardener, Epic Gardening, and Miss Orchid Girl on YouTube. Books: The Farmers Almanac. Your advice to new gardeners "Feed the soil, not the plants." This is advice I didn't understand until I had gardened for several years. I thought I could purchase some manure each year, a high quality fertilizer, and those would be adequate to feed my plants. However, each year I noticed a decline in yield. It wasn't until I built up the health of my soil with compost, leaves, grass clippings, and other organic material that it sprung back to life. Not only are the plants happy, but I've built an entire ecosystem within my soil. I still apply manure in spring before I plant, and feed organic fertilizer throughout the growing season, but my garden is much less dependent on these resources while producing significantly more fruits, veggies, and flowers. Thank you Kevin for your sharing this gardening highlight with us! Below are some photos from the 2024 record attempt:

In the heart of every garden lies a silent pact between hands and soil, where the journey from seed to bloom is guided by the whisper of leaves and the promise of petals. Picture this: a sun-kissed morning, a well-tended plot, and a gardener armed with an array of tools, each with a story to tell. As we step into the horticultural tapestry, let's explore the best companions a green thumb can have – the tools that transform dreams of flourishing gardens into vibrant reality. The Time-Honoured Trowel: Our journey begins with the humble trowel, a seasoned warrior in the gardener's arsenal. With its curved blade and sturdy handle, the trowel is the trusted companion for planting, digging, and weeding. According to a survey by Gardening Enthusiast Magazine, 92% of gardeners consider a high-quality trowel to be an indispensable tool in their collection. Its versatility and durability make it a timeless favourite, ensuring that every gardener can dig deep and plant roots with confidence. Source: Gardening Enthusiast Magazine, "In the Hands of a Gardener: The Trowel's Legacy," 2024 Pruners – the Garden Sculptors: As the garden transforms into a tapestry of colours and shapes, the pruners step onto the stage. Whether delicately shaping a rosebush or taming the unruly branches of a fruit tree, pruners are the sculptors of the garden landscape. According to a study conducted by GreenThumb Trends, 87% of gardeners invest in high-quality pruners for precision and ease of use. With sharp blades and ergonomic designs, these tools allow gardeners to shape and mold their green havens with artistic finesse. Source: GreenThumb Trends, "Pruners: Shaping Gardens with Precision," 2023 Soil pH Meter – The Silent Guide: Beneath the surface, where roots weave intricate tales of growth, lies the secret to a thriving garden – the soil. The soil pH meter emerges as the silent guide, helping gardeners understand the hidden nuances of their earth. According to a recent survey by SoilCare Insights, 68% of gardeners rely on soil pH meters to ensure optimal conditions for their plants. With a quick probe into the earth, these meters empower gardeners with the knowledge to balance acidity and alkalinity, creating a harmonious environment for their botanical companions. Source: SoilCare Insights, "Cracking the Earth's Code: The Role of Soil pH Meters," 2024 Cultivating Wisdom with Garden Forks: As seasons change and gardens evolve, the garden fork becomes a beacon of wisdom for the seasoned gardener. A study by Harvest Wisdom Institute revealed that 80% of experienced gardeners consider a reliable garden fork to be an essential tool for soil aeration, turning compost, and cultivating deep-rooted plants. With its sturdy tines and ergonomic design, the garden fork becomes a symbol of the gardener's wisdom, turning the soil with care and nurturing the very foundation of the garden. Source: Harvest Wisdom Institute, "Garden Forks: Cultivating Wisdom in Every Turn," 2023 Watering Can – Nurturing the Thirsty Earth: In the dance between the sun and the rain, the watering can takes center stage, ensuring that every petal and leaf is cradled in liquid sustenance. According to a survey conducted by AquaBloom Insights, 95% of gardeners advocate for the use of a well-designed watering can for efficient and mindful watering. With its gentle flow, the watering can becomes a vessel of nourishment, connecting the gardener to the very lifeblood of the garden. Source: AquaBloom Insights, "The Art of Watering: Insights from Gardeners," 2024 Crafting Garden Dreams with the Right Tools As we stroll through the enchanting world of gardening tools, it becomes evident that each item is more than a mere instrument – it's a storyteller, a companion, and a custodian of dreams. In the hands of a gardener, these tools become extensions of creativity and care, shaping the landscape and nurturing life. So, whether you're a seasoned cultivator or a budding enthusiast, choose your tools wisely, for they are the key to unlocking the secrets of your flourishing garden. Happy gardening!